Bengaluru: Trivandrum or Thiruvananthapuram is a microcosm of Kerala’s vibrant cultural landscape, representing the best of the southern state’s verdant nature, rich heritage and a thriving demography.
The crown jewel of this cultural synchrony is the East Fort of Trivandrum.
A bustling heritage enclave centred around a temple and palace complex, East Fort is a protected landmark in the heart of Trivandrum, replete with art, architecture and cultural experiences.
The historic East Fort area could easily pass off as the Shahjahanabad or Purani Dilli of Trivandrum, albeit on a much smaller scale.
Much like old Delhi, which is pivoted around Jama Masjid, the East Fort area is also centred around an imposing religious structure, the Padmanabha Swamy Temple, which is known as the world’s richest temple.
The area is punctuated by a cluster of ornate palaces and royal administrative blocks as well as the bustling Chalai Bazar, the Chandni Chowk of Trivandrum, though less crowded and more organised, but no less colourful.
And like the Red Fort in Delhi, which was the seat of Mughal authority, the East Fort was the seat of the once powerful Travancore Kingdom that ruled most of southern Kerala and some parts of Tamil Nadu until India’s independence.
Developed in 1747 by King Marthanda Varma, the locality represents a fine synthesis of native and Dravidian construction styles that employed locally available material and artisans, with ample consideration for local weather conditions.
Helmed by two giant gates, the East Fort area is a treat for general travellers, the pious pilgrims as well as heritage lovers.
From bazaars and museums to palaces and eateries (banana chips, spiced up fish delicacies et al), the locality offers the best of cultural Kerala.
The sprawling Kuthira Malika Palace or Horse Palace so named after the wooden carvings of prancing horses adorning the entire length of its upper floor, was the former royal residence.
Now a museum, housing an exquisite collection of royal artefacts, a walk through the Kuthira Malika Palace is an experience of immense serenity. Unfortunately, we couldn’t bring you any visuals from inside as cameras are not allowed in the palace.
Slice of heritage
However, here is an interesting slice of heritage that might quench your thirst for intrigues - something unique to the Travancore Kingdom.
Intriguingly, the Travancore monarch was not the sovereign of his Kingdom. The king ruled on behalf of the Padmanabha Swamy Temple.
It so happened that in 1750 the then king of Travancore, Maharaja Anizham Thirunal dedicated his kingdom to Shri Padmanabha Swamy, the Travancore royal family deity, exercising his authority as a humble devotee.
The tradition continued until the kingdom ceased to exist upon joining the Republic of India.
Travancore was one of the three princely states that came together to form the modern state of Kerala. The other two being the Kingdom of the Zomorins who ruled from Kozhikode and the Kingdom of Kochi.
The royal cluster of the East Fort also houses some interesting art museums such as a modern wax museum offering wax representations of famous actors, sport stars and political leaders.
Other traditional structures that adorn the Fort enclave include the Anantha Vilasam Palace, built by King Vishakam Thirunal in 1880 in the Baroque and Rococo styles of architecture.
Rolling hills
Built on seven rolling hills and initially clustered around the royal enclosure of the East Fort, Thiruvananthapuram has today expanded into a sprawling metropolis. But, the city has consciously retained its ancient charm, while gradually adopting modern contours and character.
Trivandrum offers a wonderful synthesis of the traditional Travancore, the consummately colonial and the sleek modern elements not just in its architecture, but also in its culinary, sartorial and demographic make up.
Among the heritage structures that stand out in the city is the more than 100-year-old Victoria Diamond Jubilee building that houses Kerala’s Central Library.
The library was originally inaugurated in 1829, however it was moved to the current building when it was built in 1900 to commemorate the diamond jubilee of Britain’s Queen Victoria, who was also the Empress of India at that time.
Being the state capital, the city welcomes outsiders with a characteristic warmth and any tourist unfamiliar with the local Malayalam language can get around with a mix of Hindi, English or Tamil.
The city’s spirit of harmony is best accentuated at Palayam, the seat of the old Cantonment, which forms a symbolic confluence of three faiths rubbing shoulders – the ancient Ganapathy Temple, the modern Palayam Juma Masjid and distinctively Gothic St. Joseph Cathedral.
When in Kerala, how can you miss out on its sandy beaches and serene backwaters?
The city is home to many sunny beaches such as Kovalam Beach, Shankhumugam Beach and the Valiathura Beach.
The Thiruvallam Backwaters on the way to Kovalam offers not the just the tranquility of nature but also a range of aquatic sports activities for those who need some adrenaline rush.
From history buffs and nature lovers to adventure enthusiasts, Trivandrum is an ideal tourist destination, offering something for people with every taste.
-- Shafaat Shahbandari is founder-editor of Thousand Shades of India and a freelance journalist based in Bengaluru
