There are two cuisines of the world which I firmly believe unite us all, across borders, cultures and languages, and interestingly enough, although they come from opposite ends of the globe, they have something in common: noodles.
Yes, a love of Italian and Chinese food is the one thing that brings all people together, whatever their political bent. Sometimes I wish warring factions would just sit down over a plate of lasagna or chow mein and get talking.
I don't want to belittle their issues. However, sometimes the reach of food seems really amazing to me — there's certainly a Chinese restaurant in Beirut or Cairo or Tunis, churning out dishes that will take people out for a little exoticism tonight. If you don't believe me, read the appetising, and hilarious, foodie exploration of Chinese food's world domination by New York Times reporter Jennifer 8. Lee, The Fortune Cookie Chronicles.
And in Dubai — which she mentions in the book — incidentally, we're no different. It seems the latest food fad in the city is for Chinese restaurants, with one opening this month (the upscale Chi'Zen at Festival City), another planned shortly (London's famous Royal China) and a new Yum Cha brunch launched last week.
So ahead of the Chinese New Year on February 2, it seemed apt to bring you up to speed with the dining zeitgeist. Move over, you posh Japanese outlets with your citrus-spiked sashimi. It's the turn of the noodle.
Yum Cha at the Westin
Chinese fever is hitting the city in more ways than one — even the established brunches are getting their Zen on. I checked out the Yum Cha (it means "to drink tea", apparently) brunch at the Westin, taking place every Saturday in the Blue Orange and Spice Emporium restaurants.
The selection is vast, if not totally authentic, but if you're looking for a Chinese spot that will keep the entire family happy, this is it. Recreating Chinatown-style dim sum restaurants, a trolley will visit your table to offer dumplings, although the range was restricted to four that we could count — shrimp and chicken varieties.
Then it's on to your feet to search through the buffets and live cooking stations. Make sure you stop at the duck counter, then pick up some lamb chops and steak, which are marinated and char-grilled. Like I said, not your typical fare, but those were the highlights, as were the acrobats and the adorable dragon dancers who popped up periodically.
The brunch costs Dh299 (with beverages), Dh185 (with soft drinks). Kids from 6-12 eat for Dh99, those below 6 eat free.
Chi’Zen
This outlet was such a pleasant surprise when we visited, as hearing that it was at Festival City, we imagined an outlet a step up from the food court. What joy, then, when we finally found it, on the waterfront, a floor above the hustle and bustle, and with a knock-out view of the Dubai skyline across the water.
Even better, when we got a table on the cool terrace, I opened my menu and the first item was jellyfish. I had to pinch myself — was I in an authentic-leaning, outdoor, chic-but-not-poncey Chinese restaurant? The answer? "A pleasant surprise is waiting for you." (I took that from a fortune cookie, natch.)
We ordered a vast amount of food, family style, as we were told by the manager, is the way it's meant to be eaten. That means dishes constantly roll in, a varying tempo of styles and flavours, and that suited us just fine, although the jellyfish was vetoed. Instead we plumped for chicken spring rolls (Dh30) — some of the tastiest I've eaten, immensely crisp and packed with flavour and ingredients.
I was commended by the manager on my choice of a triple hit of salads (Dh50) to get the appetite going — mustard-laced black mushroom, sesame cucumber and celery sticks were a good foil to the deep-fried deliciousness of the shrimp dumplings (Dh30) and the sweet fluffiness of the BBQ chicken buns.
Soup lover? Don't miss the hot and sour (Dh35), which fully lives up to its name and is — like most dishes here — packed with taste. I would give the bland corn and crab (Dh35) a miss though. Fans of shark fin and birds' nest dishes (shame on you) will be happy here, as will those with a taste for abalone, as it's present throughout the menu.
We were most enamoured of the duck (1/2 duck; Dh155) however, which is served in the traditional manner: a waiter will cut the super-crisp skin off table-side and leave you to roll it up in fluffy, handmade pancakes with hoi sin sauce, while the meat is cooked to your liking — we chose chilli and garlic, although I think they were a bit reserved with the spice.
Five of the best Chinese dishes in Dubai
tabloid! on Saturday loves Chinese food. Here are some of our top spots around the city, whatever you're looking for:
Da Shi Dai (Dubai Marina and UpTown Mirdif) for steamed rice in lotus leaf with chicken and egg: the dreamiest, most flavoursome rice you've had. So long, basmati!
Noodle Bowl (Al Diyafah Road) for tofu stuffed with shrimp, deep-fried and served in a chilli and bok choi sauce. Hot and complex.
Duck King (Jumeirah Park Plaza and Mirdif City Centre) for — what else? — duck, especially in soup with egg noodles.
Shang Palace (Shangri-La) for peace, elegance — and jellyfish.
China Sea (next to Clocktower Roundabout, Deira) for sea cucumber, a chef hand-making dumplings — now that's a bonus that accompanies the scrumptious meal — and a private karaoke room.
