When a journalist friend requested me to review the almost three-month old Barrio Fiesta my reaction was "Filipino food? I'm not so sure".
But she was encouraging and insisting. So, one breezy afternoon earlier this month I approached BurJuman a little apprehensively, my fingers (and toes) crossed.
The restaurant, located in the new wing of the shopping centre, is the first UAE outlet of the Filipino chain. The airy and open seating design of the restaurant is well complemented by indigenous art and craft, including a mother-of-pearl arched entrance.
Sweet, sour and salty
Filipino food is a fusion of Spanish, Malay and Chinese cuisines with native ingredients. Unlike other Asian fare, this is not spicy at all, but a combination of sweet, sour and salty flavours. Also, unlike other Far Eastern countries, Filipinos don't eat with chopsticks but with a spoon and fork.
I was pleasantly surprised by the taste and flavour of the dishes ordered for us by our host. Adobo a dish of marinated meat (usually chicken) or fish seasoned with garlic, soy sauce, vinegar, and spices is probably the most popular and easily available Filipino dish, but he suggested we try the other items on the menu.
We were enjoying calamansi juice, the local lemonade, when salpicao, sinisig na balat ng manok, crispy tadyang na baka, bicol express ni mama, inasal na manok and laing was served with bacolod's garlic rice. The exotic names don't give you a clue as to what you'd be eating, unless you know the language. But it's guaranteed you wouldn't be disappointed.
Salpicao is marinated tenderloin strips cooked in olive oil and garlic, a tasty, tangy version of the Chinese crispy fried beef. What was really new to my palate was the sinisig na balat ng manok crispy fried chicken skin. It tasted fine and it's difficult to guess what it is unless told. But, once is enough for me.
Few vegetarian options
My friend enjoyed the crispy tadyang na baka, or beef ribs, and the inasal na manok char-grilled chicken was like any other.
However, the two tastiest things on the menu were bicol express ni mama strips of beef, squid and shrimp simmered in spicy coconut milk sauce and the laing taro leaves cooked in coconut milk with shrimps. The former was much like a Thai curry, probably because of the coconut milk, and went well with the rice. The laing was more like home-cooked spinach and comes in an all-vegetarian version sans the shrimps and fish sauce.
The menu has only a couple of vegetarian choices, as Filipino food is predominantly meat- and fish-based.
As we finished our meal with turon à la mode sweetened fried banana roll with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce I wondered why I was so hesitant in approaching the cuisine before. It was the familiarity of the taste that broke the cultural misconceptions I carried into the restaurant, which can often hamper curiosity and the desire to discover. Thanks to my friend.
Barrio Fiesta
Where: BurJumanTel: 04-359-4158
Must-have: Salpicao, Bicol express ni Mama chit and laing.
Décor: Modern
Ambience: Casual.
Total bill: Dh217 for three.
