Cleansing
Cleansing doesn’t just promise a more thorough wash, but it also targets specific skin concerns and promotes a healthier complexion, overall. Image Credit: Shutterstock

Is your skincare routine stuck on repeat? Don't worry, it's not you, it's your cleanse! Cleansing is the foundation for glowing skin, and it might need a remix. Enter, double cleanse.

Why though? Well, our skin takes a beating every day. Pollution, make-up, and sunscreen – it all builds up. Here's where double cleansing steps in, like a power washer for your pores. It's a two-step process that gets your face clean, and the good news is that it doesn’t cost a fortune. So, if you really want to level up the effectiveness of your skincare routines, especially with those nightly moisturisers, serums, prioritise cleansing. With double cleansing, you can bid goodbye to all the day’s dirt and impurities, paving the way for other products to penetrate deeper and work their magic.

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So, ditch the single wash and give your skin the treatment it deserves. Let's see why double cleansing is recommended by dermatologists and beauty aestheticians.

What is double cleansing?

washing the face
The method involves two different kinds of cleansers. With the help of this two-step process, a thorough wash is ensured, and the skin is clean. Image Credit: Shutterstock

Double cleansing is exactly what it sounds like - cleansing your skin twice, but strategically. Fatima Ellouh, Laser Therapist at Skin Laundry explains why we need to do this. "It effectively removes all the layers accumulated throughout the day—SPF, makeup, environmental pollutants—that cannot be fully cleansed with just micellar water or makeup wipes." So, by ensuring the removal of dirt and impurities, double-cleansing prepares your skin for the rest of the skincare routine, she adds. 

Kinga John, a Dubai-based skin cosmetologist and Nameer Abdul Majeed, Specialist Dermatology, Medcare Medical Center Sharjah and Al Zahia explain, the first cleanse removes makeup, sunscreen, and surface impurities. The second cleanse goes deeper to truly purify the skin. This practice originated in Korea and has become a staple in K-Beauty routines. Majeed adds, "Besides removing impurities and makeup, a double cleanse can also rejuvenate dull skin and enable other skincare items to absorb more quickly, in addition to providing a deeper cleanse."

The method involves two different kinds of cleansers. With the help of this two-step process, a thorough wash is ensured, and the skin is clean and prepped for the rest of the routine.

Besides removing impurities and makeup, a double cleanse can rejuvenate dull skin and enable other skincare items to absorb more quickly, in addition to providing a deeper cleanse...

- Nameer Abdul Majeed, Specialist Dermatology, Medcare Medical Center Sharjah and Al Zahia

Double cleansing, particularly at night, offers an even more thorough purification process.

Step 1: Oil-based cleanser

The first cleanse utilises an oil-based cleanser. This formulation effectively dissolves oil-based impurities like makeup, sunscreen, and sebum. Think of it as a gentle yet powerful solvent, clearing away the day's accumulated residue.

Step 2: Water-based cleanser

The second cleanse employs a water-based cleanser. This removes any remaining water-soluble impurities like sweat and traces of pollution. It acts as a final polishing step, ensuring your skin is impeccably clean and prepared for further skincare treatments.

You can take it a step further and take a leaf out of Korean star Bae Suzy’s book. In her makeup tutorials, she advertised a rather intensive cleansing experience: The 4-2-4 Korean skincare method.

Here’s how to go about it:

Woman
With a clean and prepared face, your serums, moisturisers, and other products can function optimally, which helps to attain a healthy complexion. Image Credit: Shutterstock

Oil cleanse massage, for around four minutes: Apply your oil cleanser and massage it gently into your skin for a full four minutes. This extended massage promotes circulation and ensures thorough makeup removal.

Foaming cleanse for around two minutes: Follow with your water-based cleanser and work it into a gentle lather.

Double rinse, two minutes lukewarm, and two minutes cold: Rinse your face thoroughly with lukewarm water for two minutes. Finish with a splash of cold water for an invigorating final step.

As John says, “Whether you choose the traditional double cleanse or the 4-2-4 method, thorough cleansing sets the stage for the rest of your skincare routine. With a clean and prepared face, your serums, moisturisers, and other products can function optimally, which helps to attain a healthy complexion.”

What are the benefits of double cleansing?

Sunscreens might be undisputed champions of skincare; however, cleansing deserves the silver. As Mona Norman, a Dubai-based dermatologist, explains, cleansing doesn’t just promise a more thorough wash, but it also targets specific skin concerns and promotes a healthier complexion, overall. She notes, “Double cleansing removes a wider range of impurities compared to a single cleanse. The oil-based cleanser dissolves oil-soluble makeup, sunscreen, and sebum, while the water-based cleanser removes sweat, dirt, and other water-soluble impurities. This leaves your skin feeling truly clean and refreshed.” Double cleansing helps prevent clogged pores, significantly reducing the likelihood of breakouts.

As a result, owing to a clean skin, your serums, moisturisers, and other skincare products can penetrate deeper into the skin. This allows them to work more effectively and deliver their full benefits. Finally, you can see the signs of a far more radiant and brighter complexion.

Cleansing mistakes to avoid

woman
Opt for a gentle cleanser formulated for your specific skin type. Image Credit: Shutterstock

It’s easy, but people still tend to make mistakes as the experts explain. The two main problems occur, when you over-cleanse, or don’t cleanse enough, explains John. Majeed elaborates further, "There is a risk of aggravating any skin concerns by removing too much natural oil through over-washing. For dry skin types, this risks tightness, pulling and flaking, while for oily and combination skin you may find yourself with more breakouts due to the skin overcompensating to reproduce the lost oils," he says. The skin might feel clean in the short run, but may become greasier and more unbalanced over time. He warns that those with acne-prone skin should be especially careful not to over-wash and provoke inflammation. 

On the other hand, under cleansing leaves the skin rather dull, and more prone to accumulation of dirt. Without sufficient cleansing, we prevent the skin’s capacity for collagen renewal. This layer of dead skin and impurities hinder the absorption of the actives in your serums and creams, too, she says.

Here are some other common mistakes, explains John. 

Using the wrong water temperature: Hot water can be drying and irritating, while cold water won't effectively melt away makeup and impurities. Opt for lukewarm water for a gentle and effective cleanse.

Not removing makeup thoroughly: Leaving behind makeup clogs pores and can lead to breakouts. Use a dedicated makeup remover or a gentle oil cleanser to ensure all traces of makeup are gone.

Scrubbing too hard: Aggressive scrubbing can damage your skin's delicate barrier. Use gentle circular motions and let the cleanser do the work.

Forgetting your neck and hairline: These areas are often neglected but can also accumulate dirt and oil. Extend your cleansing routine to your neck and hairline.

Not rinsing properly: Leftover cleanser residue can clog pores. Rinse your face thoroughly with lukewarm water, making sure to remove all traces of cleanser.

Skipping cleansing after sweating: Sweat can trap dirt and bacteria, so it's important to cleanse your face after exercising or sweating heavily.

Not using the right cleanser for your skin type: Using a cleanser that's too harsh for your skin type can strip away natural oils and cause irritation. Opt for a gentle cleanser formulated for your specific skin type.

Not following up with a moisturiser: Cleansing removes dirt and oil, but it can also leave your skin feeling dry. Apply a moisturiser suitable for your skin type, after cleansing, to replenish hydration and keep your skin healthy.

Who should double cleanse?

We all want that clear complexion. However, double cleansing might not be the suitable approach for everyone. For instance, as Norman suggests, people with oily skin or those who wear makeup daily may find significant advantages to double cleansing in the evening. This two-step process effectively removes makeup, sunscreen, and excess oil. An oil-based cleanser is typically used first, followed by a water-based cleanser for a final polish, ensuring a refreshed and clean feeling. Meanwhile, for those with less oily skin or those who wear makeup infrequently, daily double cleansing might not be necessary. A single cleanse using a gentle cleanser can effectively remove daily impurities and maintain a healthy skin balance.

The products you use in your cleansing routine, however, should be dependent on your skin type and condition and what your skin needs. For instance, those who wear a lot of makeup should use an emulsifying cleanser first, as this will break down any makeup and the oil...

- Geraldine Janse Van Veuren, the brand manager of Dubai's Comfort Zone

Geraldine Janse Van Veuren, the brand manager of Dubai's Comfort Zone, an Italian beauty brand based in Dubai advises, "By doing this two-step regime, you are removing the dirt and grime from the skin first, before using another cleanser in the second step, that should have the active ingredients needed to target the skin’s individual concerns. The products you use in your cleansing routine, however, should be dependent on your skin type and condition and what your skin needs. For instance, those who wear a lot of makeup should be using an emulsifying cleanser first, as this will break down any makeup and the oil. Once this has been done, then another cleanser that is specific to skin type can be used - for instance, those with acne can use a cleanser that contains salicylic acid, while those who have dry or aging skin should use a cleanser that has AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)," she says.

Veuren advises that you should only use products that have strong actives such as AHA or Salicylic Acid in the evening after you have been out all day and your skin has been exposed, not first thing in the morning.

Although you can use a two-step cleansing routine both morning and evening, in the morning, the double cleanse or two-step cleansing routine is not as necessary. Night-time is best for stronger cleansers, while in the mornings it is better to use something light, gentle and refreshing, nothing too strong or too astringent, says Veuren. 

Regarding what kinds of cleansers to use, including oil-based, cream, or milky, experts remind that it’s important to do a patch test first to see what cleanser works for your skin.