India’s Bohra cuisine brings to mind warm malai khaja (cream with flaky pastry), Khichda (meat and lentils slow cooked) and of course dabba gosht, which literally translates to mutton in a container. Made with juicy pieces of marinated mutton and whole Indian spices, the dish is layered with pasta, eggs, and tomatoes, making it the ideal one-pot meal.
But, how did this dish combine ingredients that originate from different parts of the world?
Gulf News Food looked back on the origins of dabba gosht and we discovered that this dish became popular in India, nearly a 100 years ago and has its roots in the colonial era. It was a blend of Western cuisine and Indian spices – more like a one-pot meal cooked in a container.
Gulf News Food spoke to Dubai-based Indian expatriate Juzer Baldiwala from Mumbai, a home cook who specialises in Bohra cuisine and runs a catering business of his own. “Dabba gosht was introduced as a commercial dish in a Parsi restaurant based in Mumbai. It was made with boneless mutton pieces and then layered with potatoes, tomatoes and egg. However, not many liked it. After a few years, it is claimed to have been reintroduced by a caterer with a slight twist to the recipe. The twist was that the caterer added kaju or cashew paste with green peas, to give the gravy a more nuanced texture. It was actually called mari gosht in the beginning due to the addition of black pepper, but changed to dabba gosht after it was made in a container.”
A steel container is all you need
Like Baldiwala said, the distinct quality of this dish apart from its flavour is that it was made in a stainless-steel container. We also spoke to Arafat Mansuri, the owner of Delhi Darbar in Dubai, who said, “One of the key factors to note about this dish is that it is always made in a stainless-steel container or dabba. Initially, people combined these ingredients, layered them and then steamed it in large dabbas in the past. The mutton would always be cooked in a separate pan with whole spices after marination. Today, we follow the same process, using traditional vessels. This whole process of cooking the meat and then steaming it after layering was introduced at least 50 years ago.
“Additionally, it also resembles the Italian lasagne, except that our version is juicier because we add curry in it. When cooked at home, the recipe varies from family to family, where some substitute the mutton with chicken, but the process is always the same.”
The essence of it all lies in the pouring of ghee or clarified butter
Apart from its flavour and ingredients, the preparation of dabba gosht is quite unique as well. “The one-pot dish has a signature style of preparation,” explained Dubai-based Bohra food blogger Rashida Badlawala, who is popularly known as @rashidablogs. “After layering the meat and noodles, pasta or lasagne sheets, we crack a few eggs over it and pour sizzling ghee or clarified butter or oil over the eggs and let it cook. It is quite similar to the kheema lasan or minced mutton with green garlic that we make. Some even use boiled eggs.”
The one-pot dish has a signature style of preparation
Dabba gosht also uses a sauce similar to the French béchamel sauce, except that it is made with Indian spices – which are optional – and cheese. “It [dabba gosht] can also be made with any pasta or noodles of your choice. Since it combines the goodness of mutton, pasta and sauce, this dish is also quite convenient to make. For us Bohras, mutton holds quite a special place as well. In fact, most of our dishes use mutton,” explained Badlawala.
One of the key factors to note about this dish is that it is always made in a stainless-steel container or dabba. Initially, people combined these ingredients, layered them and then steamed them in large dabbas in the past
While it combines many different ingredients, dabba gosht doesn’t take long to prepare and can come in handy when short of time. “It’s easier to make than it looks,” explained 35-year-old Indian expatriate from Baroda, Gujarat, Nafisa Mustafa, another food blogger. “Most people think that because the dish combines many ingredients, it can be very hard to prepare, but it is actually easy to make once you get the hang of it. It also important to note that dabba gosht is best prepared using fresh mutton and not frozen mutton, because it can take a long time to defrost and absorb flavour.”
A closely guarded secret with sentimental value
Some believe that this recipe is fading over time due to it being restricted to the Bohra community. However, for these expatriates, the dish holds a very special place in their hearts and seize any opportunity they get to share this dish with the world. “Dabba gosht is actually a fun dish, if you ask me,” added Badlawala. “I call it fun in specific because when I was a kid, I used to look forward to the days we made this – it was served in an unconventional way, where we used to eat it out of a container and it had the element of cheese. Plus, it always resembled a pie or pudding, which was easy to eat because it was boneless, unlike other dishes.”
For Mustafa, preparing this dish in UAE has also helped enhance flavours of the Middle East. “I think my fondest memory of making this dish is actually when I came here. My mum makes quite a simple version of it, but when I made it for mum on her visit to Dubai, she told me it was better than her version. I think it is because the UAE has always been a hub for some of the freshest ingredients – be it meat, vegetables or even spices. Today, I am able to make dabba gosht that I’m sure will be well-suited for the Middle Eastern palate.”
Lastly, when served, dabba gosht tastes best when eaten as is, but many like it served with a side of fresh bread or steamed rice or roti (unleavened flatbread). Make it at home with this recipe from Delhi Darbar.
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