It was a day of tributes at Dubai Fashion Week on Monday, the second of the five-day event. While Emirati designer Abeer Al Suwaidi paid homage to the Eighties and to reggae legend Bob Marley, debutant Qatari designer Fatma Al Majid's creations of floating kaftans were an ode to Arabia. Indian duo Meher and Ridhimma chose aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart as inspiration and Samsaara boutique's Umar Sayeed went back in time to honour Sadequain Naqqash, considered one of the greatest painters and calligraphers Pakistan has ever produced. At the closing show, it was Bollywood-bred Vikram Phadnis' turn to go back to his film roots with his paean to Indian actress Rekha's character in the 1980s iconic film Umrao Jaan.
But while there were flashes of creativity in many of the shows, there was a déjà vu-esque feel to many of the collections. As it did on Day 1, kaftans, in various incarnations, seemed de rigueur for many designers.
Label 24: Rohit Kumar and Abdul Haider
Kumar, a native of Jaipur in Rajasthan, renowned for its beautiful palaces, was clearly influenced by his home town, harking back to the days of old world regal looks and giving them a modern twist. Featuring high collars and Nehru vests in crisp cuts, the designer successfully blended Eastern patterns with Western design philosophies. Unfortunately though, some of his clothes hung loose and looked ill-fitted on the models.
Kumar's Label 24 colleague, Abdul Haider showcased a trousseau collection, which his promoters said was "aimed at the modern bride". But as the models paraded in a series of lehengas (embellished long skirt with a corset), sarongs, saris and churidars (tunic with skinny pants), it was evident which buyers Haider was targeting. Former Indian model and showstopper Anupama Verma came close to being outshone by the chunky, but beautiful silver neckpiece she wore with her green two-piece dress.
Aartivijay Gupta/Aditi Rastogi and Priyanka Kakkar
The Asian theme continued into designer duo Aartivijay Gupta and Aditi Jaggi Rastogi's collection. Heavily embellished saris, salwar kameez, lehengas shimmered under the bright lights.
Designer Priyanka Kakkar deviated from the heavily Asian theme with her knee-length dresses in a mix of bright colours cut sharply, some featuring embroidered yokes and ruffles.
Ush by Abeer Al Suwaidi
Emirati designer Abeer Al Suwaidi raised the tempo, literally, with her brave but very creative take on the abaya, set to sounds of drums, squeals and whistles mixed with music from the Eighties. The designer didn't hold back as models walked out in Rastafarian caps, braids, giant cupcakes and glasses wearing innovatively knotted abayas with brightly coloured patterns on the underside. From Thailand to Bob Marley and Morocco to David Bowie, Al Suwaidi said later her new collection "My Way" is a "journey" back to things that have had the biggest impact on her.
"I want people to have fun, to express their individuality," she said after her show.
Al Suwaidi's unrestrained and creative fusion of the abaya with pop culture makes her a designer to definitely watch out for.
Al Deseo by Fatma Al Majid
Qatari designer Fatma Al Majid played with colours and embellishments for her debut show which saw free flowing fabrics such as silks and chiffons in formal and semi-formal designs. Interestingly, fur appeared in the form of linings that ran across the necklines of some of the robes.
Meher and Ridhimma
Aviation pioneer Amelia Earhart was the inspiration for Samsaara boutique's designer duo Meher and Ridhimma, as sounds of planes kicked off the show and models strutted out in aviation glasses. Kaftans in corals, greens, peaches and yellows were playful and flirty.
Umar Sayeed
The dramatic start of the Umar Sayeed show, with a model walking in from the front end of the catwalk, set the tone for this art-inspired collection. Samples from artist Sadequain Naqqash, considered one of the greatest artists from Pakistan, featured heavily in the first few pieces and so did caws of crows in the soundtrack, another recurring theme in his works.
Here again, Asia took centre stage as lehengas featuring intricate hand embroidery mixed with chiffons, silks, cottons and hand-woven brocades were brought out shimmering under the spotlight.
Vikram Phadnis
Vikram Phadnis said the collection was "India through my eyes".
Kicking off the show with a montage of Bollywood films he's designed for, and his favourite stars, Phadnis played with the sari in various forms through velvet, sheer and gold. Tassels added a playful touch to his ensemble which came out in hues of beige, purple, pink and red.
Caps, made famous by the film Umrao Jaan, added an interesting twist to the lehengas and salwar kameezes.
While rich and evocative, and undoubtedly stunning and intricate, Phadnis's latest collection is unlikely to cross over in its appeal.
