America holds a fascination for many people, myself included. There's something about the fast pace, high energy life of the cities (well, New York) mixed with a sense of tradition and style that's just captivating. And as much as I do love Dubai, there's something of that "big-city living" the Americans do so well that's somewhat lacking here.
I know this is a long shot, but I have a belief it's tied to the length of bars. See, when I picture New Yorkers having their T-bone steaks, Waldorf salads and apple pies, it's at a bar rather than a table. Perhaps a booth. There should be rows and rows of sparkling glasses, and hopefully, friendly barkeep you can pour your heart out to. Okay, I know. I've been watching too much Cheers. (And yes, I know that's Boston).
Back to Dubai, and my search for that shiny bar wide enough for a big plate of steak. Enter The Gramercy, which has NYC in its DNA, not just its name (from the city's neighbourhood), thanks to the general manager Anthony, an affable New Yorker whose time and conversation is definitely worth the price of the drink you should buy him. There's a long wooden bar, comfortable high chairs (not stools) and for that modern touch, big TV screens showing the Premier League football.
Nostalgic for the city he left behind, Anthony's helped some of the best dishes make their way over here, including a raw bar, steaks and burgers, and some creative salads.
Raging appetites
We kicked off our meal with a selection from the raw bar — that's oysters and other seafood, some of it actually cooked. The Brittany oysters (Dh100 for 6) are recommended at this time of year, over the larger Dutch that are also available, and they do live up to their tiny, briny reputation — very fresh and also nice in a shot of spicy tomato juice and celery leaf. Please chew them! The lobster shooter, teaming a piece of meat in a glass with dill and pineapple, didn't work as well for my taste. But the little bites did get our appetites raging.
Bring on foie gras — a thick slab, full of flavour, served with a pineapple chutney and a salad our waiter insisted we eat at the same time. (The staff are helpful and knowledgeable, although it was a quieter night, so I'd like to see them under pressure). Good trick — it's not something I've ever tried, but the salad, a bitter mix of endive and frisée, was perfectly dressed with a mustard-y vinaigrette that hit the spot. We didn't really need the pineapple, which here felt like a hula dancer attending an Eskimo party.
For those looking for a hot dish to kick off, try the prawns, in a creamy, capery sauce (Dh65). Warm and comforting, as well as finger-licking.
The seasoning so far had been spot on — in fact, it's not often I find everything in a restaurant so flavourful. But our sea bass main (Dh115), served with roasted garlic, baby carrots, fennel and roast potatoes, had been over-seasoned — a shame, as it was tasty, just also very, very salty. My dining partner who ordered it said it didn't quite live up to her love of the fish. My dark and shiny lamb shank (Dh115), however, was melting, meaty and had the sticky quality you get from long, slow cooking. It was perched on smooth mashed potato with some broad beans dotted around — I would have loved more of these.
Finish off with the tiramisu. It's a pretty classic rendition, in a deep glass, that I was barely able to touch because my dining partner polished it off so fast. She sets her bar pretty high, so I'd say cheers to that.
The Gramercy, DIFC
- Décor: Wood, but definitely not wooden.
- Atmosphere: Where the big boys come to play... and watch sports.
- Must-haves: Brittany oysters, prawns in cream sauce and lamb shank.
- Price: Around Dh500 for two, excluding drinks.
- Call 04-4377511
