It is the saga of how one man's mission has become a mass movement.

Nine years ago when veteran journalist Kuldip Nayar and a handful of intellectuals walked to the Wagah border separating India and Pakistan with candles in hand to light the spirit of friendship among people living on both sides of the iron gates that rarely opened then, they were laughed at. It was termed an act of symbolism.

Undeterred, they continued with their mission, year after year.

They did it once again on Saturday night lighting the cloud- covered grey skies with those tiny flickering flames. They had for company thousands accompanying them to convey the message to the powers that be in both New Delhi and Islamabad that mutual hatred had by now given way to the mutual desire for lasting peace and friendship.

The rush of people to the border took even Nayar and others in the Hind-Pak Dosti Manch (Indo-Pak Friendship Forum) that has been organising these candlelight marches by surprise. Although they had an inkling of what was in store with reports that people from far off places had started to join their annual ritual, the turn out was far greater than they had ever dreamt of. The 26-km stretch that connects Amritsar with Wagah, the lone functional road joining India and Pakistan was chock-a-block.

This road is normally deserted since besides the Delhi-Lahore bus service, not many use it since they are met by big iron gates that open now far more frequently, but not regularly. Some enterprising tourists though do drive down to Wagah Border to witness the spectacle of security forces stationed on the two sides of the fence exchange pleasantries after they lower their national flags with ceremonial march and beating of drums at dusk each evening.

Local traders had apparently anticipated the rush of humanity better than the local administration.

Those who had set up temporary stalls selling snacks, sweetmeats, fruit juices and chilled water were doing brisk business.

As the harassed Punjab Police called in for riots police and horse mounted police to control if riots broke out, the Border Security Force (BSF) personnel managed things much better.

Standing behind the locked gates, they would turn the mob away with a smile on their face and by explaining what lies across the border. "No they are not candlelights that you see in the distance. They are halogen lights on the Pakistani side. We have no information if something similar is happening on that side of the border too," a BSF personnel was seen explaining.

In fact nothing was happening on the other side of the fence. The six-member Pakistani delegation, including three sitting parliamentarians, who had earlier in the day crossed the border, were at pains to explain that the love affair was not one sided and that the desire for peace and friendship was mutual.

To make up for that, the Hind-Pak Dosti Manch is now planning a greater extravaganza, hoping to bring in 6,000 people from other side of the fence to partake in a similar ceremony in October this year.

"I just heard that something is happening on the border. Though my grandfather came from Pakistan side I have never been to the land of my ancestors. I will be happy if my participation can dismantle the fence some day," said Jagbir Singh Kalka, a youth from Pathankot.

In fact, if any community felt the pinch of separation the most, it was Punjabis living on both sides of the fence. They share common heritage, culture, food habits and sense of dressing.

"Sample these jalebis (sweetmeat). They are the same that you would get in Lahore. My father had a shop there before he had to move in 1947," insisted Sukhwinder Singh, who was busy frying and soaking jalebis in sugar syrup.

The organisers of the Saturday night fiesta, which started on August 14, when Pakistan celebrates its Independence Day and ended when India began celebrating its Independence Day yesterday, tried to keep those who came all the way to support their mission engaged by organising musical programmes and cultural activities laced with occasional speeches.