For a country scarred by one of the worst genocides in history, a trip to Cambodia is a vivid one. I travelled there in July during the monsoon. That means cheap tickets and malaria. So, after scrutinising the "don't leave home without ..." section of the travel book, I packed every mosquito repellent I could find.
Though July is quieter, December and January are the best months to visit, as the worst of the summer is over and the rains are just around the corner.
Because of its geographical location, Cambodia’s history, culture and food are intimately linked to its neighbours Thailand, Vietnam and Laos. While the country had regional power during the Khmer Empire, a series of events allowed Vietnam and Thailand to dominate later.
After an excruciatingly long journey, I landed in Phnom Penh. However, from there began a journey to remember.
Although many backpackers travel through Cambodia at breakneck speed to reach popular tourist sites in Vietnam and Thailand, it’s a place to be savoured and explored, something which I’m looking forward to doing again.
Angkor Wat
As the nearest town to the Angkor Archaeological Park, Siem Reap sees a constant flow of camera-toting backpackers. My six-hour bus ride from Phnom Penh was bumpy and noisy. The TV in front played a stream of Cambodian action films, eradicating any chance of sleep.
On my list of things to see before I die, Angkor Wat has always been at the top, along with the Pyramids and Great Wall of China. Once the heart and soul of Cambodia, it is now a set of mossy ruins half taken over by the jungle. The complex is so large that weeks can be spent happily exploring the temples, studying etchings that grace the mossy walls and admiring the architecture.
But I didn't have weeks and had to make do with visiting the most popular buildings. A view of the site at sunrise and sunset is a must-do according to tourist books. So I dutifully woke up at the crack of dawn. However, everyone had the same idea and the area was swarming with tourists.
Cambodian food
Cambodian food is spicy and simple, and draws inspiration from its neighbours. Apart from the curries and vegetable dishes that taste much like Thai or Vietnamese cuisine, it also includes a few unusual delicacies such as deep-fried tarantulas and barbecued snakes wound delicately around a stick.
Malis in Phnom Penh is one of the most chic places to dine. Set in a Zen garden, the menu uses traditional Camobodian spices and ingredients to make new concoctions. Friends is one of the city’s popular restaurants.
The bright and cheerful venue offers tapas, unusual and creative beverages and a selection of Cambodian favourites. The waiters are former street children who have been employed and trained in the hospitality industry.
Waterworld
The next day, I took a boat tour of the Chong Khneas floating village where we saw a floating church, a floating garden which someone had fashioned out of bamboo sticks, floating animal pens along with floating schools, houses and petrol stations. Children, too, floated around in enlarged saucepans while their parents whizzed around on speedboats, buying and selling products at a floating supermarket.
Battambang Province
I decided to stop over at Battambang, a provincial town halfway between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap.
The town is emerging as Cambodia's fourth tourist destination. I rented a moped and spent an afternoon whizzing around the countryside past preserved colonial buildings and hilltop temples. I also took a spin on the bamboo train, which is a bamboo platform that runs on old rail tracks.
Phnom Penh
This is an animated and colourful city teeming with boutique shops and restaurants.
My first stop in the city was the Royal Palace. The extensive grounds with ornate gilded rooftops are an oasis of calm and feature a pagoda made of 5,000 silver tiles. Inside the pagoda is an impressive 17th-century Buddha made of baccarat crystal and decorated with 9,584 diamonds. The other ceremonial buildings are covered in floor-to-ceiling paintings that provide glimpses of royal life.
The Tuol Sleng Museum, also known as S-21, was next on my list. During the Pol Pot regime, this schoolhouse was turned into the largest prison and torture camp in the country. The museum holds meticulous documentation of the regime and the images of all its prisoners.
Just outside the city are the Killing Fields of Choeun Ek, where the S-21 prisoners were bludgeoned to death before being dropped into shallow pits. The site is now a picturesque and calm orchard with hens chasing their chicks among leafy mounds.
As I came closer to the mounds, I saw fragments of bone and clothes that had been brought up by the rains. Next to the shallow graves, a memorial has been built, showcasing the skulls and bones of the victims in a glass case.
Apart from this, Phnom Penh, offers enough action for you to spend a few days. I went for the lazy option — dozing by the pool, enjoying a swim while it rained and kicking back in the gardens of boutique cafés.
Where to stay
Phonm Penh
Accommodation is cheap and plentiful. Because of the reasonable prices, I opted to stay in a couple of the boutique hotels that can be found in the leafy suburbs of the city. Villa Langka is a beautiful boutique hotel located in central Phnom Penh. Its high walls mean that its gardens
and pool remain shaded and calm all year round. The price is about $60 (Dh220) for a medium room. For something slightly out of the ordinary, stay at the Blue Lime. The 23 rooms and furniture are made completely of smooth concrete, giving it a cool and modern edge. It’s about $40 (Dh147) for a double room.
Siem Reap
Cheap and cheerful accommodation is plentiful. Stay in one of the smaller B&B-style guesthouses such as Golden Temple Villa, a cosy and modest place, for as little as $9 (Dh33) a night.
Battambang Province
Not much accommodation here as the tourist scene is yet to grow but if you’re looking for a little bit of luxury, stay at La Villa. The hotel is a renovated colonial French villa with vintage furniture and photos. The large breezy rooms and beautiful terrace make it a perfect place to
relax.
