How did you start on a project like Jodhaa Akbar?
I was asked to make the costumes not only for Jodhaa and Akbar but for the entire cast including various kings, the soldiers, the dancers and the royal servants. It was one-and-a-half years of hard work. I first read the script, then began doing my research. Then, I went back to the script and individual characters. There was no reference material available.
So, based on paintings and books from the 18th century, I tried to look for fabrics and embroidery that looked close to that era. Finally, it was about creating a look of my own that would work in that time period and also be acceptable to contemporary audiences of today. I used pure materials like crepes, tissues and woven fabrics with embroidery to create a luxurious look.
What was the most difficult part?
Doing Hrithik Roshan's armour and his pagdi (turban). We had to sculpt the armour by hand on his body for the metal to take the shape of his body. For the pagdi we had four experts from Rajasthan, but they just could not get it to sit properly on his head. Finally, I volunteered to do it although I know nothing about tying one. Hrithik sat patiently for over an hour while I struggled, but it worked and that is the pagdi he has used throughout the film.
What was your reaction when you first saw the film?
I saw it at a technical preview and I was speechless. It was amazing to see all the hard work translated so beautifully on the screen. I found the words to congratulate director Ashutosh Gowarikar only after I saw it the second time.
What response have you had from the public?
I have been overwhelmed by the positive response from everyone who has seen the film. My cell phone and mailbox are full of messages from friends and well wishers from around the world.
After Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam, Taal, Devdas and Jodhaa Akbar, is Aishwarya Bachchan your favourite muse?
I design for the character not the actor and am happy to design for any actor.
Now that you have done costumes for Akbar, do you plan to start a men's wear line for your label?
Definitely. I already do men's couture, but would love to do prêt lines.
Even Hollywood has approached you for period costumes. Do you like being considered a period specialist?
Yes. I did costumes from 3000 BC for the entire cast of One Night with a King (currently running in Dubai theatres). I am happy to be seen as a period specialist because I enjoy doing the research and challenging my mind with such projects.
How different was it to design stage costumes for the Shilpa Shetty-starrer musical Miss Bollywood?
Those were fun, colourful, typical Bollywood dance clothes. The need for stage is to have heavy duty, sturdy materials.
What's next in terms of films?
I am working on two epic films from very different periods, but cannot talk about them yet. I have no personal ambitions and go where God takes me. But I now have the confidence to do whatever comes my way.
What is it like to tour with so many other designers?
It is great fun – like one big long party.
