Nothing new yet it is catching on - women opting for masculine scents. From the woodsy to the smoky to the very vetiver? a definite shift is taking place, says Carolina D'Souza.
Which one of the following is the correct answer?
A woman buys masculine fragrance to:
(a) Gift it to her fiancé;
(b) Use it on herself;
(c) Both of the above.
The correct answer is (c).
Areej fragrance buyer Daisy Rodericks doesn't find this surprising. She says, "A woman wearing masculine fragrance is not uncommon. Sometimes you cannot even tell the difference.
It is interesting to observe two kinds of women consumers - those who use them and those who spray handkerchiefs to evoke special memories."
Dubai-based fragrance retailers endorse this emerging trend. "Women select fragrances that complement their body chemistry, even if they are masculine. Kenzo L'Eau Par, Ralph Lauren Polo Blue and Escada Sentiment are popular choices among women because they are fresh and invigorating," says Maria Linda Torrente, sales executive, Salam Studio, Allied Concession, Wafi City, Dubai.
Yuki Ikeda, salesperson, Grand Stores, BurJuman, Dubai, has a concurrent view too. "A section of Dubai-based female residents choose fragrances for their composition, regardless of the gender classification," she says.
And this buying pattern isn't peculiar, according to Abdullah Habibi, perfumes supervisor at Paris Gallery, Deira City Centre, Dubai. "Many women pick masculine fragrances such as Davidoff Cool Water or Chanel Allure for themselves."
Convincing enough?
This shift in preferences and marked change in attitude offers conclusive proof. And the women responsible are unabashed about it.
So when and why did this crossover take place? Did a fragrance expert stumble upon this woman-using-masculine-fragrance fact, or was it a well-guarded secret that has just been revealed?
If he can do it, so can I!
Call it a shrewd philosophy, a counter-tactic or a smart way to even the score, but whichever way you slice it, the approach of "If he can do it, so can I" is quite out there to see.
To understand this behavioural pattern, let's look at the many ways in which women have crashed through into territories that were once barbed-wired off limits for them - motor racing, wrestling, weightlifting, piloting, mountain climbing, kayaking, death well riding, rodeo ...
The list is long and it's perhaps no longer relevant to keep drawing up lists such as the above. Let's simply put it this way. It's a level playing field today.
I mean if men can wear pink shirts and violet-shaded trousers and look good in them, well, good for them.
Ergo, if women can ignore the pink rose and white jasmine stuff and go for musk and vetiver and old leather and feel good wearing such scents, why not?
Stephanie Durand, store manager at Faces, UAE, says, "Traditional gender values are being hybridised, and boundaries blurred. These lines are far more obscure in the West than in the Middle East."
For example, Durand points out that the use of make-up and skincare were once upon a time exclusive feminine privileges. But look at the sheer range of mencare grooming products that are on offer today?! "Now men have their own make-up and skincare lines. In the past, there was a marked distinction between what men and women did or how they appeared. This distinction has blurred considerably," she says.
Rodericks, however, has a different view. "Women have been wearing masculine fragrances since the days of cologne in the early 18th century," she says. "Today, when women choose fragrances, they give more importance to compositions rather than the actual gender classification.
"Most feminine fragrances are floral, while masculine fragrances are woodsy or spicy."
Factors at play
A woman uses fragrance to represent her identity. But when she uses a masculine fragrance, what message does she send? (Could it be that she simply loves how certain male fragrances smell? I mean why look into complex motives when it's simply a smell that counts?
Whoever questions whether the smell of rain on parched earth is a feminine scent or a masculine one? It's simply a gorgeous smell. Men and women probably love it equally.)
"There is an emotional buying motive when a woman buys a fragrance," says Durand, admitting Middle Eastern women are eager to experiment with new fragrances, and age is no barrier.
"A woman may purchase a masculine fragrance if she is adventurous or competitive, or if she wants to feel more powerful. One way of understanding her behaviour is to look at it as an expression of emancipation."
But Rodericks says power is not a masculine quality. "An increasing number of women are using masculine fragrances because they understand the various olfactory ingredients. I believe it isn't wrong if a woman wears a masculine fragrance. If it suits her personality and makes her feel confident, she can choose any kind," she says, citing names such as Joop Classic, Issey Miyake, Christian Dior Fahrenheit, Dunhill Fresh and Guerlain Vetiver (all male fragrances) which have been found to be all-time favourites among women.
The limited fragrance categories such as floral, oriental, etc, in the feminine fragrance stables could be another reason why women use masculine fragrances, says Durand. "Most feminine fragrances are floral. In contrast, masculine fragrances offer more categories which in turn calls for playful experimentation.
"YSL Opium and Escada Magnetism (for example are very popular as well amongst women)."
Good for him and her
The category of fragrances that throws demarcation to the winds is called unisex. You and your husband/friend/brother/father can wear the same fragrance without crossing any gender boundaries or making people turn up their noses.
Unisex or gender-bender fragrances have a very balanced composition, says Durand. "It is interesting to note that these are not too feminine or masculine; rather they are in-between, and hence appeal to both genders. A good example is CK one."
She also speaks of fragrances that are retailed as His and Her sets. "These enjoy immense popularity in the Middle East. It is usually the woman who shops for fragrances, and she tends to pick up pre-packaged sets which share a common name, but are distinctly different in smell."
While women may purchase His and Her sets because they are more convenient, "for many," says Rodericks, "this proves to be an attempt to establish a bond on a different level. You can achieve this when you wear complementing fragrances."
Surprisingly women are not the only ones to transgress boundaries. Men love experimenting too, discloses Rodericks. "Sean Connery wears Guerlain Jicky for women, and many other men choose subtle feminine fragrances."
Subjective response to fragrance
Olfactory studies have proved memories evoked by odours are more emotional than memories evoked by other sensory stimuli. Perhaps this would explain why a woman wears or sprays a masculine fragrance on her handkerchief or pillow to recall the memory of a loved one.
Rodericks and Durand share common views on this subject. "A fragrance such as the one worn by your parent, husband or partner can instantly transport your thoughts to a special memory. Studies have shown how certain fragrances linked to the past can beemotionally comforting, especially to a pregnant woman," they say.
According to the New York-based Sense of Smell Institute*, a woman's sense of smell is keener than a man's.
A recent poll conducted by the institute showed home, childhood and romantic relationships were most often linked to "smell memories" than holiday celebrations and vacations.
Both beauty experts attest to this with personal examples. Durand's father wears Christian Dior Fahrenheit, and sniffing it on anybody else or in a store can at once bring back happy childhood memories spent with her father.
As for Rodericks, Guerlain's Champs Elysees is associated with one of the happiest periods in her life. "Whether I smell it on somebody else or in a retail outlet, it instantaneously makes me smile," she says.
(*Source: www.senseofsmell.org)
