Sparkling green emeralds, blushing red rubies and shimmering diamonds - gems have captured every woman's (and some men's) imagination since they were discovered thousands of years ago.
And combining them with metals such as gold, silver or platinum makes them complete and gives them a lure that is unparalleled.
Though many of us wear jewellery in one form or the other, possessing a one-of-kind vintage piece is like owning a slice of history.
The current fascination with the past has transcended to today's designs as well, with a number of jewellery designers drawing inspiration from a bygone era.
Since designer Saud Raja is from Yemen, her intricately carved silver and gold jewellery is influenced by old and traditional jewellery from Yemen. "Sheba, or Sabá in Arabic, was the ancient kingdom dating back to the 10th century BC, located in what now is Yemen. Under the reign of Queen Bilqis, commonly referred to as the Queen of Sheba, the secrets of silver crafting were developed and the making of silver jewellery flourished.
I derive inspiration from the old traditional jewellery of Yemen and my goal is to preserve the mystical, spiritual and social symbolism inherent in this traditional jewellery. I work on old designs to give them a contemporary spirit to bridge the gap between the past and the present," says Raja, whose jewellery is sold in the UAE through Scarabée's outlets in Dubai and Abu Dhabi.
Another brand sold at Scarabée is Shwar by Naglaa Ezzat. Ezzat's jewellery is inspired by old Oriental jewellery and she works with silver, semi-precious stones and a combination of silver and gold. "Ezzat is well-known for the unique necklaces and earrings engraved intricately with Arabic calligraphy. She also uses filigree designs on her pieces which is a style that might be phased out soon, as it is hand-made and very time-consuming," says Colette Makar, owner of Scarabée.
Boucheron is sold at its exclusive store at Mall of the Emirates, and draws inspiration from its older designs for its current collections. Its attitude when creating new collections is not only about getting inspiration from the past, but interpreting it in a contemporary way.
Since Boucheron was created in 1858, the snake design has been a constant theme of the brand's creations. When the snake was re-introduced by Boucheron in 2000 and again in 2005, it was a clear message that its designers wanted to go back to the sources of culture and art that inspired the original creations of Frederic Boucheron.
The creations of Turkey-based jewellery designer Nilufer Tarzi Kuran, are sold at Harvey Nichols in Dubai, and rely heavily on older designs for inspiration. "Designs from the past serve as a starting point for today's jewellery designs. My travels through the Far East, Egypt and England also influence my work. My pieces are an amalgamation of the jewellery designs of the pharaohs of Egypt, the Romanov Dynasty, the Maharajahs of India, and the Ottoman Empire," says Kuran.
Kuran feels that Turkey is a melting pot of Eastern and Western culture that is conducive to her work. "My latest collection uses semi-precious stones, inspired by the souqs of the Middle East and the royal courts of India. I have used a lot of turquoise, amethysts and topaz stones this season as they are in fashion. The turquoise stone is extremely popular as it is also believed to ward off the evil eye," says Kuran.
According to Kuran, a number of prominent jewellery designers and design houses are heavily influenced by the past. "History is a rich source that can stir the imagination and lead to the conception of a number of new designs. Even big names such as Cartier and Bulgari re-visit and interpret earlier designs in their new collections," she says.
Bulgari's archive of drawings is stored in chronological order at its headquarters in Rome, which provides a framework for maintaining cultural identity and defining style. The brand is sold at Boulevard in Emirates Towers, Mall of the Emirates, Burj Al Arab Hotel and the Marina Mall in Abu Dhabi.
Bulgari's jewellery designers use the archives to search for ways of perpetuating the Bulgari style - its mix of classicism and modernity and its exploration of innovative materials and colour combinations - adapting archived designs to add a stronger identity to their current collections.
Bulgari has always drawn on its classical origins, refining ancient architectural motifs into a modern, linear timelessness. Bulgari's examples of vintage designs adapted to the modern collections of today include the yellow and white gold theme limited edition collection with mother-of-pearl stones such as green garnet and rhodonite, which was inspired by sautoirs (a chain to which a pendant is attached) of the 70s. The 80s Parentesi design in yellow or white gold and diamonds has been revisited recently, with a softer, more feminine feel.
Modern trends come and go, but when it comes to the timeless feel that classic designs in jewellery offers, designers still turn to the past for inspiration.
