Milan: Anna Wintour ruined it for me. The first image that comes to mind when someone says “Stefano Pilati” is that of a fumbling nervous wreck from a scene in the documentary film The September Issue. In it, the great Wintour is previewing Pilati’s collection for YSL, where he served as head designer for ten years, and she’s not very happy.
“What, no colour in this collection, Stefano?” she asks, sternly, as Pilati fumbles for an answer.
How refreshing then, to see a very self-assured and confident Pilati at work at the Milan Fashion Week menswear showcase for Ermenegildo Zegna. Strong, well-defined and very relaxed, his collection for the Italian luxury brand, which he joined in 2012 (the year he left YSL), left no doubt in anyone’s mind that he’s very much in his comfort zone.
Using architecture as a focal point, Pilati still limited his colours (that’s the label’s signature, though, not his), working with navy, black, different shades of green and brown. Stripes were present everywhere, keeping with the theme as he played with structure and fluidity.
Despite the clothes being worn by very young models — some looked like teens — the collection was very mature. Pilati was, as always, generous with his volumes. Trousers with oversized cuffs were a personal favourite, and cropped shirt jackets.
British actor Sam Riley (he plays Angelina Jolie’s sidekick in Maleficent) made his fashion week debut at the show, dressed in Zegna of course.
Held at the massive CityLife Palace auditorium, the same place as their autumn-winter show in January, entry and exit to the venue was remarkably easy — and not as hectic as the next show, Versace, at the busy Via Gesu, also the location of their flagship store.
I have to say though, fashonistas in Milan have been very well behaved, with many waiting patiently in queues even for standing space. And the styles? Well, they’re as original as they come.
Like any major fashion week, there are throngs of blogger photographers armed with their cameras outside, waiting for that street style look they can go back and blog about. Because, you know, fashion weeks are as much about what you wear to the shows as what you go to see.
Anyway, the Versace show space, inside the store, was decorated with items from its home collection. Chairs and plates were stuck on the walls, which were covered with Versace bed sheets featuring the brand’s signature decorative border heavy with gold.
Even the models came out with plates as accessories, as if Donatella Versace was inviting us to some fun picnic somewhere. The collection was high on sex appeal: topless models in white jeans, towels slung carelessly on bare shoulders and swimsuits that wouldn’t look out of place in ancient Greece.
The Caribbean was definitely on Versace’s mind, with palm trees printed on the jeans and graffiti inspired by Cuba turned into colourful motifs along with tropical plants and fruit on the jackets and accessories. Suits came in pink, bright blues and white.
Summery and relaxed
The collection was summery and relaxed with soft, fluid materials, yet was opulent and rich. A highlight were the backpacks worn by the models, imploring you to set out on that well-deserved summer getaway. Yes, please.
Now because each brand holds its own show at a different venue, getting from point A to B can be tricky, if you’re not familiar with the city. Yes, organisers have arranged for shuttle buses but those buses can’t get everywhere.
So after a bit of a good walk in the opposite direction, I found myself outside the Philipp Plein show in Via Carlo Botta. And because his was the last show of the evening, the German designer had the advantage of throwing an after-party, which probably explained the massive crowd outside the venue trying to get in.
Once in, following a few minutes of push and shove, it was evident Plein was going to make this a party to remember. A massive outdoor swimming pool was the centre of the ‘stage’ with topless lifeguards/models sat high on their chairs watching.
Plein, quite the rock star, is known for his crystal embellishments. And he kept to the script.
But first, the show began with some synchronised swimming. Then, American rapper Theophilus London performed standing on the back of a jet ski driven by a suited model as the models walked out.
Sharks were this season’s recurring element and they were everywhere: on the invites, on the stage, as decor and on the clothes. And oh, crystallised versions too. Now there’s a reason Plein does so well in Dubai and the Middle East, wouldn’t you say?
There was a lot of navy blue in this spring-summer collection, with many of the pieces covered by multiple patches, even the footwear. And the jeans were slashed within an inch of their lives, so to speak, but to great effect. With the patches, Plein also channelled the military look and was generous in his use of studs. Leather jacket arms came studded, so did shoulder pads, lapels and bags.
Because the show was outdoors, although the sharks didn’t bite, the mosquitoes did, as attendees vigorously fanned themselves. And while Plein proved he knows how to throw a party, it was time to call it a night right after the 25-minute show, before we were eaten alive by those bloodsuckers.
