Every summer for the last 12 years, Cannes has become an open-air exhibition of fashion and beauty photography, with hundreds of life-size works by leading fashion photographers displayed on the glamorous city’s Croisette seafront as part of the International Festival of Fashion Photography.
Now it’s all coming to the UAE for the first time in DXB Fashion Photography, a week-long free exhibition at Mall of the Emirates’ Central Galleria.
Starting on January 7, 50 large-format photos from the 2014 exhibition by the likes of Marcelo Benfield, Iris Brosch, Daniele Cipriani, Sune Czajkowski, Lucia Giacani, Nancy Fina and Anita Bresser go on display in Dubai, alongside 10 works by five local and regional photographers — Emirati photographers Nasser Ali and Fatma Hilal, Maha Nasra Edde from Lebanon, Atif Abu Samra from Sudan and Adel Rashid from Syria.
The star of the show is Baghdad-born fashion photographer Mazen Saggar, known for his work with Louis Vuitton (he’s the fashion house’s preferred photographer). He opens the event on January 7 and will be mingling with fans of fashion and photography from 11am. We caught up with him to talk celebrity photos, fashion shoots and Vuitton.
What are you working on at the moment? Did you shoot any campaigns that we might be seeing in magazines at the moment?
The advertising campaigns I’m currently working on at the studio are about still lifes and genre scenes; to increase luxury objects’ value through their image. Soon to be published in 2015.
Tell us about your relationship with Louis Vuitton: How did it come about, why does it continue?
I worked with a Parisian studio for which Louis Vuitton was a client. Then I got to know many representatives of this famous fashion house. They liked my work and some time later they asked me if I would agree to set up an agency dedicated to their photography needs: portraits, still-life scenes, fashion shows and events, press trips… I said yes! I liked Marc Jacobs for his talents as a stylist, for his unique creations — always surprising in their expression of femininity, charm and refinement.
Now that there is a new artistic director, Nicolas Ghesquiere, what changes have you noticed?
With the arrival of Nicolas Ghesquiere, the most powerful fashion house in the world developed a new identity. He knows how to play with the rules, the cultural heritage and the signature of the brand alongside daring all the audacities.
Which other fashion houses have you photographed for? Any favourites, and why?
I regularly work for major fashion houses such as Kenzo, Berluti, Hermes, Nina Ricci… But I have to admit that I’m almost fully occupied by my work with Louis Vuitton. I love to work with them since they have a high creative potential with high requirements in visual communication.
You’ve shot many celebrities. What makes a great celebrity portrait? Are some celebrities better at being photographed than others?
Quality and intensity of the interaction. A nice portrait is a soul revealed. This is a complex exercise that requires generosity from both the model and the photographer. Last but not least, the luck factor is always present.
Tell us about the wildest, funniest, craziest fashion shoot you’ve done?
I was asked to shoot the actress Freida Pinto [Slumdog Millionaire] dressed in Louis Vuitton. I couldn’t stop shooting, amazed by her stunning beauty. The next morning I met her in her hotel room when she had just woken, without any make-up... she was even more beautiful.
Who would you love to photograph that you have not worked with yet?
The major fashion photographers.
Who are your favourite photographers?
Patrick Demarchelier, Annie Leibovitz, Peter Lindbergh, Mario Testino, Helmut Newton.
Explain what happens on a shoot and what your role is?
First is the commission from a magazine or a couture house. Then we prepare the shoot with the artistic director, who gives the creative guidelines to follow. Lastly is the post-production; the selection of the best images and the retouching process. The photographer is the link between the fashion house, the artistic director, the model and the eyes of the readers.
What photographic work do you do outside of fashion?
Photojournalism. I like to bear witness to a part of our human history — to give a true and accurate account of some people’s suffering. To give them that exposure. In sharp contrast to the fashion world.
How did you get into your role, and what would you say are the qualities needed to make a photographer?
Photography is like writing. You have to like storytelling and sharing. This is a process of reflection, of observation and of creation.
What are your favourite images?
The ones I have not seen yet.
