Ghengis Khan seems to be still alive in his homeland, Mongolia. His name is on every second billboard — be it a restaurant or trucking company. It appears on roads, apparel and even on refreshment labels!
The legendary conqueror of the 12th century, whose empire stretched from China to the Caspian Sea, was the most powerful the world has ever known. And, surprisingly, all that he accomplished was on horseback. Stories and legends about him abound, weaving a magical air — his cruelty, ruthlessness coupled with kindness, loyalty and importantly, military skill.
Road less travelled
A recent trip to Mongolia was like venturing into the unknown, moving far away from the well-travelled road most tourists usually take. A group of friends who enjoy visiting offbeat places picked the country purely because one of them had just read a book on Ghengis Khan!
But first, a little about the great conqueror. It is believed that he was born in 1167 and named Temujin. Legend says that he was born with a clot of blood in his fist which augured ruthlessness and which certainly came true.
Revenge as obsession
When he was nine years old, his father was killed. Temujin struggled to keep his family alive and revenge became his obsession. After a power struggle, he became the head of the Borijin Mongol clan and gradually managed to subjugate and unite most of the Mongol tribes. He was given the name Genghis, meaning 'universal king'.
He conquered Russia and China, moving westward across central Asia, and annexed vast swathes of territory. He conquered twice as much as any other man in history. As the Mongolians say, "The hooves of the warrior's horses splashed in the waters of every river and lake from the Pacific Ocean to the Mediterranean sea". At its zenith, the empire covered about 12 million square miles!
Ghengis Khan died in 1227, leaving behind the enormous kingdom to his sons. In 1229, his favourite grandson, Ogedei, continued the military campaigns and successfully strengthened his hold over conquered lands. Kublai Khan, another descendant of Ghengis Khan, featured in Samuel Taylor Coleridge's poem, Xanadu.
The grandeur of the Mongolian empire lasted over a century. Kublai Khan died in 1294 and by the mid-14 century, the empire began to disintegrate.
Legendary skills
The secret of the Mongol's dominance was their horsemanship. Each soldier went to war with five horses and could ride for weeks, supposedly surviving on the mare's milk and blood. Their skill with the bow and arrow are also legendary, with a soldier shooting even backwards with great accuracy.
In the 20th century, the country came under the control of the Russians and finally in 1996, the Mongolians became independent. With this freedom there has been a resurgence of national pride and with that, the idolising of Ghengis Khan — who is revered as the father of the country.
Mongolians say that they are Asian in ethnicity but Western in culture. This has been due to the Russian dominance. Along with folk dances, there are ballet centres and opera houses. Another contradiction is, despite the surname Khan, most Mongolians are Buddhists, thanks to Altan Khan (1507 to 1583), who converted to Buddhism and which became the religion of Mongolian nobility.
Ulan Bataar, the capital of Mongolia, is now gearing up to receive visitors with the first Kempinski opening shortly.
Many visitors
The Germans and French are usually the adventurous tourists checking out the palaces, museums and cultural shows; the Koreans and Chinese go there for business while the Japanese go for the Buddhist connection.
With just a few days to enjoy Mongolia, we toured the city, checking out the Gandan Khid monastery — the largest in the country — and listening to monk's hypnotic chants. The Winter Palace of Bogd Khan is another place worth visitng but, the best was the overnight stay in the nature reserve Gun Guluut.
Four hours of good and bad roads took us deep into the steppes. Occasionally, a car whizzed by but we did get to see shepherds with their flocks, horses roaming wild and plenty of ger villages. A ger is an insulated round tent which is very comfortable. Small resorts, such as the Gun Guluut have sprung up to give tourists a feel of living close to nature.
And it is a treat difficult to describe in words. The land is covered with lush green grass, with the sight of hills far in the distance. The only sound is of gurgling water in a nearby brook, if you happen to be close enough to hear it. The sky is a brilliant blue with no trace of pollution. At night, the sky is cloudless and filled with stars and one feels so close to nature and all that is primeval.
Middle of nowhere
During the day, we tried to visualise Ghengis Khan riding across the steppes with his conquering hordes and talked about getting stranded in the middle of nowhere. And we almost did! One afternoon, we went out for a drive to see some wildlife. The road turned into a dirt track and then disappeared. Our van got stuck. with no cellphone coverage for help and darkness approaching, the situation became worrisome.
Helping hand
Suddenly, a young horseman dressed in traditional coat and hat came riding past with a dozen horses and offered to help. Eventually, some fishermen on their way back home saw our plight and helped get us out of the mud. As we headed back to the city. we saw a colossal statue still under construction.
It was of Ghengis Khan astride a horse, as if keeping a watchful eye on his kingdom.
Go there...Ulan Bator
From the UAE
From Dubai: Air China flies three times a week via Beijing. Fare: Dh4,320 (Fare exclusive of taxes)
— Information courtesy: Dnata Holidays
— Nirmal Khanna is a UAE-based freelance writer
