In 2024, you can achieve your dream hair length almost instantaneously.
Under the deft hands of a hairdresser meticulously fastening hair strands lock by lock, even hair left tear-inducingly short after a big chop can actually grow to waist-length tresses in hours. Or sprout layers of coloured highlights in any shade – burgundy, blonde, purple… without dyeing and damaging your real hair.
Case in point: K-pop stars who possess the remarkable ability to sport entirely different hair each week, changing length and colour with apparent ease. Blackpink’s Lisa, for example, often switched from a shoulder bob to her signature long ponytail for concerts. But more people are opting for it casually in their daily lives, with easy clip-ons for events, hair highlights without damage and to add more volume.
If you’re considering it yourself, here’s all you need to know before taking the plunge.
Fashion accessory to confidence booster in the UAE
“I noticed that from 10 women that I knew, 9 of them had extensions. It’s very popular here,” says Iryna Solonar, master of hair extensions and salon manager at Lamsat Harer salon in Dubai. She refers to the Russian-speaking community that she had mingled with, and this observation played a part in her journey to learning the craft.
There are many reasons why women opt for hair extensions – from preparing to look extra glamourous for festivities, to addressing hair thinning.
Simran Nankani, managing partner of Hair Play salon in Dubai, says, “It’s for everyone. Actresses, models will add it for glamour as a fashion accessory – if they want long hair, thicker hair or a certain kind of style.“ During summer holidays especially, the list of extension enthusiasts includes kids who want to try a fun new hair colour but without the damage of dyeing their hair – a simple clip with pink or purple locks attached will do.
Hair extensions are for everyone. Actresses, models will add it for glamour as a fashion accessory – if they want long hair, thicker hair or a certain kind of style. Then there are also people who need it because their hair is thinning...
Nankani adds, “Then there are also people who need it because their hair is thinning. Hair thinning is a very common thing nowadays, even in young people, which is very surprising. It can be a lifesaver for those women who feel very low or are losing confidence because of their hair." Solonar also mentions that they have numerous clients with health problems, including cancer and alopecia.
According to an analysis of UAE’s alopecia therapeutics market by Insights 10, a healthcare-focused market research firm, alopecia is becoming more prevalent in the UAE and other regions globally, especially among women and young adults.
Solonar says, "It’s also sunny, sandy and very hot, so for hair, it’s not the best environment. “
Having extensions can also be a happy personal secret for some. Solonar adds, “One of my clients came to me and told me, please do the same extensions for me as you do always, because my husband doesn’t know that I have extensions! It’s like for a few years you have extensions and nobody knows it. It makes people happy.”
From easy clip-ins to lasting fused locks
Easily identifiable extensions are a thing of the past as new technologies fuse tiny locks evenly around your scalp, allowing the additional hair to blend seamlessly with your own. There are a range of types to suit your lifestyle, daily habits and requirements.
If you’re wondering about which type of hair extension may fit the bill for you, here’s a quick overview. Firstly, extensions can be either semi-permanently attached to your hair, or come in the form of clip-ins that you can remove and apply as you wish.
Permanent extensions must be installed and removed professionally to avoid damage to the hair, and last for up to three months, before you need to head to the salon to re-install them closer to your scalp as your hair grows out. They include:
• Keratin Bonds: A pinch of hair pre-bonded with keratin is placed on a tiny lock from your scalp and fused using heat. The process is repeated all over your head for 2 to 3 hours until your hair has grown to your desired length and thickness seamlessly.
• Ice extensions: The process is similar to Keratin bonds but your hair and the extension are fused with a cold gel that freezes. Nankani says, “Your hair and that extension will freeze together and we can make very tiny sizes, so it’s good to apply on areas where your hair is thin.” Ice and keratin bond extensions are considered the ‘invisible extensions’, and according to Nankani, are currently the most popular. Solonar says, “It’s a trend now to make it invisible because now nobody wants anyone to know that they have extensions.”
• Micro or Nano rings: Your hair and a tiny extension is passed through a silicon ring and clamped shut. Nankani says, “Earlier it was popular, but it is the least popular one right now because it is sometimes uncomfortable to have a 100 or so small beads in your hair.” However, nano rings are significantly smaller than microrings, and are offered as an option for those with finer hair as well.
• Tape extensions: A small section of your hair is sandwiched between two tapes with the extensions. Solonar says that clients have sometimes found difficulty styling updos or ponytails with this form of hair extension as it may show.
• Sew-in hair extensions: A portion of your hair is braided in cornrows across your scalp, and a weft of hair is sewn onto the braid, adding another layer of thickness or length to your hair.
• Clip-on extensions: The easiest extension to use, it is a clip with attached hair that you can use when the occasion arises. However, they concentrate the added hair in certain parts, such as the crown for a crown-topper extension, and are not evenly spread. Nankani says, “Clip-on extensions are our best seller, it's completely DIY and very easy to use, no side effects, no headaches, it’s like a contact lens, you wear it when you want.”
Hair extensions can also be seamlessly added during the braiding process while doing box braids for the hair.
How much hair is usually added for extensions? Nankani says that that most people fall in the category of requiring 100gm to 150gm of hair, but if you are opting for a drastic transformation from shoulder to hip-length tresses, it may take a lot more.
What kinds of hair are available?
The hair you attach to your scalp can either be natural hair or synthetic hair made from plastics. You can enquire about the source of natural hair to address any ethical concerns you may have.
Ever wondered if your own fallen hair could be used to make extensions? Technically, yes, but good quality extensions depend on having all the cuticles, the outermost layer of the hair strands, intact and aligned in the same direction. This is also called Remy hair, explains Nankani, who started her journey in the industry as a supplier of hair back in 2008, travelling extensively throughout parts of India, China, Vietnam and Russia to source quality hair.
Non-Remy hair, on the other hand, may have hair running in opposite directions within the bundle, causing excess friction between the hair, risks of tangling and hair matting and is also more chemically processed. These knots can pull at the roots and cause more hair fall. Nankani says, “It's very common. We see it a lot, with a lot of people coming to us with that, and we take hours and hours to detangle and remove those knots.”
She recommends, “For clip-ons, it is better to use the best quality Remy version hair but due to budget constraints, you can go for the processed variety. It doesn’t matter as much because you’re not putting it in your hair all the time.
“Permanent extensions are on your hair 24/7 so using the right quality of hair is extremely important. If you go for a lower quality, there is a chance of making it a bushy, tangled mess in your hair that can be difficult to detangle. In some cases, I’ve had to cut the hair off my clients.“
While synthetic hair extensions made from nylon, acrylic and other plastic-derived fibres can come pre-styled in waves, you should avoid using hot tools as they can damage it. Nankani says, “Because it's plastic, it will be extra shiny. You will not find it natural looking - anybody will be able to tell the difference.”
Can extensions damage your hair or scalp?
Dr Keerthi Subramaniam, specialist dermatologist at NMC Royal Hospital Sharjah says, “Heavier extensions which cover larger areas need to be clipped to the hair roots close to the scalp. These can pull and cause irritation at the roots, weaken them and lead to traction alopecia in the long run if used continuously.” This refers to a form of hair loss caused by prolonged tension on the hair due to tight hairstyles that pull on hair roots, so finding extensions that don’t tug painfully on your scalp is important.
Dr Ahmed Khatib, specialist dermatologist and hair transplant expert at Dubai-based Cosmesurge clinic warns that excessive use of extensions can cause traction alopecia, and if it continues for the long term, it could even lead to a permanent form of hair loss called scarring alopecia.
Heavier extensions, which cover larger areas need to be clipped to the hair roots close to the scalp. These can pull and cause irritation at the roots, weaken them and lead to traction alopecia in the long run if used continuously...
He says, “Extensions should be avoided in any type of scarring alopecia, lichen planus, discoid lupus erythematosus (DLE), folliculitis decalvans and also in any type of scalp infection - bacterial or fungal.” These are various inflammatory conditions or diseases of the scalp that can be further aggravated by having extensions attached, causing additional pain and even hair loss. Dr Subramaniam also advises those with recurrent scalp itching, redness or pre-existing scalp conditions like alopecia areata, seborrhoeic dermatitis, psoriasis, or lupus against using permanent or fixed extensions.
She explains, “Autoimmune alopecia like alopecia areata have active shedding and hair are easily pulled. They should avoid anything that further aggravates this. Other alopecia like patterned hereditary alopecia can safely use it. Scarring alopecia include lichen planus where the scalp would be rendered very sensitive and cannot tolerate extensions in most cases." Seborrhoeic dermatitis, psoriasis and lupus can also cause an inflamed and sensitive scalp, hair thinning and hair loss, conditions that extensions could exacerbate due to their weight and tension on the scalp.
Extensions should be avoided in any type of scarring alopecia, lichen planus, discoid lupus erythematosus (DLE), folliculitis decalvans and also in any type of scalp infection - bacterial or fungal....
If you have doubts about whether your scalp or hair condition is suited to extensions, it is best to consult your dermatologist or hair specialist.
How can we prevent damage to our scalp?
Dr Subramaniam says, “Smaller pieces, removable clip-ins, lighter weight using natural hair and in target areas alone will help minimise the risk of traction. Also using it for a limited number of hours and giving the scalp recovery time is very important. The extensions must be thoroughly cleaned between uses.
“Fixed weaves are also becoming safer with invisible extensions being done in very small clumps or units. These do not weaken the hair roots by pulling on the scalp. The adhesives being used are also being researched more nowadays.” However, she also urges that anyone interested in extensions must research the materials and techniques used before making the decision.
Nankani also emphasises that the installation must be done professionally and precisely as per your hair’s unique needs. If not, repeated tugging and pulling of the hair, or installing heavy extensions on fine hair, can create tension in the area, cause the root to become weak and more hair to fall out.
Caring for your hair extensions 101
The good news is that high-quality extensions will typically behave like the rest of your hair. Nankani recommends using a sulphate-free shampoo and conditioner as you would for your own hair. This is because sulphates are harsh cleansing agents that may dry out the hair, affect the bonds and reduce the longevity of your extensions. She also advises using a good hair mask. Care should also be taken to avoid tugging and pulling at the roots while washing.
If you have a clip-on extension, Nankani recommends a ‘silk-shirt method’, which is to treat the extension as if you were washing a silk shirt. This includes dipping it into a tub of shampoo mixed with water, gently massaging it through without scrubbing harshly, applying conditioner and dipping it in clean water to cleanse.
