In latest episode of The Hustle podcast, we caught up with the celebrity chef to stars
Dubai: He is one of the world’s most celebrated chefs and so you would think that he doesn’t have to come to a fish market to choose his catch. But the 76-year-old culinary legend or Sultan Of Sushi as we jokingly label him does it anyway.
Say hello to legendary Japanese chef Nobu Matsuhisa, who says touching a fish and feeling its skin, makes all the difference.
The man, whose eponymous restaurants are celebrity hotspots around the globe (Think Ben Affleck, Kylie Jenner, Jennifer Garner), is gearing up for the opening of his third restaurant in Dubai at One Zabeel and he thought he will start off with Dubai's swanky waterfront market.
Trust me, Dubai Waterfront in Deira fish market is more like a gleaming mall than a traditional bustling, always smelly, fish market that you are accustomed. And there's no fly to swat in near sight.
“It smells so clean because the fishermen staff know how to clean the fish and the insides. It is key,” Nobu says, his eye lighting up when he sees beautiful sardines among the catch. He's just come off plating the Golden Globes Dinner filled with lobster salad with spicy lemon dressing and his legendary black miso cod for Hollywood biggies. But his life wasn't always smooth. From sleeping on restaurant floors to joining hands with Robert De Niro for a restaurant, this diminutive man is a self-made as they come.
Here's his incredible life story in our latest episode of The Hustle and he's no small fry.
I was born in Japan. I grew up in Japan. Japan has the whole island; you can get fresh fish anywhere, almost. Japanese culture eats a lot of fish—sushi, sashimi, grilled, fried, any type of fish.
I love to come to fish market because I like to see with my eye. I like to see fish, I like to see more quality, better quality, because I’m a chef. I have long experience. When I see the fish, touch the fish, immediately I can find that this is fresh.
Last time I was here in Dubai fish market was seven years ago, just after this fish market opened. Now it’s completely different with Waterfront Market. It’s much more upgraded. The fish is much fresher than before. There’s much less fish smell. People know how to clean fish, how to cut fish. Even the fish people understand what they do. The quality is much, much upgraded and I trust my eye better than AI.
I counted this morning how many restaurants are in town here. People love food. And also, people start eating a lot of fish. It means a very good market in people in Dubai, I can.
I love to come to fish market because I like to see fish and as a chef it's important that I am a part of picking up the best produce. The moment I touch a fish I know if it's fresh or not. I love that part the most.
I launch a restaurant in a city only after a lot of research I like to go step by step. We open one restaurant in a city and then wait for a couple of years. If that restaurant is successful - say in London or Dubai - we keep growing. We never approach anyone to launch a restaurant in any city. Somebody has always approached us. And when we get ready to launch in a city - we research hard. We do research on that city's fish market, the people, cultures, economies! Finally, we talk to investors. They are the ones who spend the money to get the restaurant off the ground. And after opening, we train local people - one by one.
Last five years during Covid were very tough for restaurant industry —May be not in Dubai, but all over United States, Asia, Europe. But now it’s back to normal. Maybe better than it even used to be. We have bounced back.
When I was young, I always try to challenge. Many times I was not successful, but I never give up. If you want to try something, just do it. Even if it’s not success, mistakes you have to learn from. Don’t lose passion. Even one millimetre of progress a day is okay.
I eat with my heart, not just eyes It's not always about the technique or presentation. Lot of people miss their mother’s food and why do you miss that so much? A mother always cooks with their heart, while restaurants may be all about one big beautiful presentation. But the taste that you remember and miss will always be your mother's food. I want that too.
I don't choose destinations, destinations choose me Somebody approached us to open a restaurant in India - Mumbai or Delhi. But I did my research. In India, most people are vegetarian - more than 50 per cent. I respect their culture. I don't want to push too much. Now all over the world, younger generation are eating fresh fish. Earlier that percentage was small! Maybe one day, I might be in India today.
My biggest catch from Waterfront Market today was the gorgeous Grouper and I saw some beautiful Sardines too! They will taste brilliant because they are so fresh.
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