Tradition meets hippie chic in the red earth-walled Madina (Old town) of Marrakesh, a World Heritage Site dating back to the 11th century where, today, old transcends new. Horse-drawn carts, cars, harem-pant-clad tourists, and Arabic- and French-speaking locals rub shoulders, en route to Djemaa-e-Fna square — a public gathering place and the portal to some of Marrakesh's best shopping.
Central Souq
Adjoining Djemaa-e-Fna Square is the entrance to one of the biggest and best souqs in the world. The dense labyrinth of narrow alleyways spans an intimidating 20 hectares and can take days to explore. While the souq is sectioned off into districts, a map can be useful to help you navigate the maze. Those who have all the time in the world (as any self-respecting bohemian should) however, can stroll aimlessly, discovering lesser-known spots and interacting with vendors.
Here's what you can buy there:
- Fabrics: Those looking to inject a dash of colour into a minimalistic home should head north along Rue Semarne to the fabric souq. The bold textiles make unique sofa throws while the delicate silk fabrics are light enough to be used as stand-out tablecloths. Opt for the popular Moroccan colour schemes of vibrant reds, oranges or cobalt blues and don't pay more than Dh100 a pop. Keep an eye out for the stalls selling curtain tassels — sizes vary from the obscenely large to kitsch-style key rings, which make quirky napkin holders.
- Lanterns: Continue along Rue Semarne past the wool souq until you see a light at the end of the tunnel. Coveted the world over, hanging lanterns are Morocco's most iconic export and here's where you'll get them at a steal. The finely worked brass spheres and star-shaped coloured glass chandeliers are surprisingly lightweight and will look right at home in a Moroccan-inspired alfresco setting.
- Jewellery: Further along, you'll stumble upon the trinket-lovers' haven of the jewellery souq — a plethora of stalls selling boho-chic handmade pieces including chunky turquoise and silver (sometimes debatable) necklaces, colourful beaded chokers, cuffs and earrings. For something original, go for the elegant hand of Fatima charms. They are a local favourite and worn as a defence against evil. Authentic Berber jewellery is also available.
- Leather: If you're the type of person that buys an item of clothing in every colour, the lure of the leather district will be too good to resist. Splurge on stylish biker jackets with tough embellishments in black, yellow and yes, even bright red — thanks to Eddie Murphy. A leather jacket will set you back Dh550, while a pair of traditional pointy babouches or slippers goes for Dh50. Don't forget to check out the vintage-style satchels and shoulder bags a la Rachel Bilson's Chloe tote.
Ville Nouvelle (New town)
Also known as the French Quarter, what this modern colonial neighbourhood may lack in personality, it makes up for in class, with many fine-dining options, European-style cafés and high-end boutiques. The cluster of sleek shops dotted along Guéliz's main drag caters to the discerning shopper looking to spend on quality fashion, jewellery and homeware.
Rue de la Liberté
Marrakesh's own Rodeo Drive, this strip is home to the most refined boutiques in the city and, like the madina, can be explored on foot. Just be prepared to share this coveted stomping ground with some feisty European fashionistas who mean big business in the acquisition stakes.
Atika (34 Rue de la Liberté, Guéliz; +212 524 43 24 52), sells trendy leather shoes, such as ballet flats and snakeskin loafers, in styles similar to well-known brands but at a tenth of the price. Place Vendome (141 Avenue Mohammad V, Guéliz), rumoured to be a favourite of Sarah Jessica Parker, sells soft leather goods including signature totes, leather wallets and classic suede jackets. For a taste of local couture, head to Intensite Nomade (139 Avenue Mohammad V; +212 537 67 40 13). A one-stop shop for men and women, guys can stock up on well-tailored crisp linen shirts while ladies will fall for the opulent tunics, modern kaftans and pop-art t-shirts. If you've got some cash to splash, fancy pants jewellery boutique Amazonite (94 boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi, Guéliz; +212 24 44 99 26), offers pricey collectibles and chunky pieces for the accessory-crazy.
— Jenny Hewett is a UAE-based freelance writer
Djemaa-e-Fna Square
Famed as the filming location for the fashionable gal-pal sequel Sex and the City 2, this sprawling marketplace has it all. Along with stalls selling fresh orange juice, you'll spot young men walking chained Barbary apes and snake charmers trying to make an easy dirham. Unsuspecting tourists, beware — even looking, in this case, is not necessarily free. It is not unusual to see foreigners being chased by pushy charmers try to wrap legless reptiles around their necks in return for cash. At night, this tourist trail gives way to a bustling food market and you can savour dry fruits, nuts, fried fish, Moroccan kebabs, tagines and even snails.
Mouassine Quarter
The boutiques and art galleries in this area are a step-up from their en masse counterparts, catering to the fashion-savvy rather than the buy-in-bulk riff-raff that the central souqs attract. And so naturally, prices are almost always fixed. If you're looking to splurge, Beldi (9-11 Rue Mouassine Marrakesh, Suikat Laksour; +212 24 441 076), is a luxe hole-in-the-wall shop offering Moroccan-style clothing with a modern edge and high-end prices to match. Just left of the Mouassine Mosque, a former Italian fashion editor-turned-furniture-designer runs a decadent haven full of Flintstone-style wooden furnishings, oddly shaped settees and other guaranteed conversation starters at Ministero del Gusto (Derb Azouz, 22 El Mouassine; +212 24 426 455).
Workers' Souq
For a peek into the daily life of a Marrakshi, enter the Nahl, or workers' souk, and head to the iron district. Out of teeny tiny, cluttered workshops, young men tap away at lanterns, pots and various metals. Check out the old chaps welding robust, ornamental padlocks with matching jumbo fairytale-style keys.
Follow Rue Rahba Kdima from Places des Epices to the crockery district for a rustic clay tagine or decorative salad bowl that packs a punch at your next dinner party. Marrakesh may not be the birthplace of quality ceramics in Morocco (Fes is known for its traditional blue-and-white tableware) but if you're not expecting to stock your cupboard with a new dinner set, you won't be disappointed. For high-quality porcelain with a contemporary edge, head outside the madina to Akkal (322, Z.I Sidi Ghanem; +212 24 33 59 38), a chic ceramics boutique offering traditional shapes in pretty pastels.
Where to eat
Feeling moorish? Upmarket Moroccan restaurant Al Fassia (55 Boulevard Zerktouni, Guéliz; +212 524 43 40 60), offers the most talked about spread in the city, serving tasting plates of traditional salads and piled servings of chicken, olive and preserved lemon tagine. French-style Grand Café de la Poste (corner of Boulevard El Mansour Eddahbi and Avenue Imam Malik; +212 524 43 30 38), flaunts an impressive lunch menu.
Where to stay
The who's who might check in to well-known luxe digs La Mamounia (6-8-9 Derb Agadir Rue de la Kasbah; +212 524 388 600) but for the ultimate in boutique luxury, head to the exclusive hideaway Amanjena (Route de Ouarzazate km 12; +212 5 24 399 000). Inside the madina, Riad Shemsi (194 Derb Chtouka, Kasbah; +212 524 38 98 78), presents a traditional courtyard-style setting and breakfast is served daily on the roof.
Although the madina tends to be dominated by tourist demand for souq-style souvenirs, there are a few emerging local designers selling one-off pieces. Kif Kif (8 Rue des Ksours; +212 661 08 20 41), near the Bab Ksour gate showcases the fashion, jewellery and homeware designs of owner Stephanie Benetiere. Everything is handmade from the printed "Life is beautiful" Arabic calligraphy singlets to the colourful handbags, cushions and poufs made out of recycled flour bags. Nearby, there's Kulchi (1bis Rue Ksour Mouassine; +212 24 062 649 783), home of French owner Florence Faranne's fashion label with a chic boho feel and interesting flair for colour.
Fashion aficionados eager to pay their respects to Yves Saint Laurent need go no further than the manicured gardens of Jardin Majorelle (Avenue Yacoub El Mansour, Guéliz; +212 24 313 047). The French couturier owned the electric blue Art Deco estate, formerly inhabited by artist Jacques Majorelle, and his ashes were scattered here after he passed away in 2008.
