“The UAE is my second home. Dubai has given me the opportunity. Dubai is inspiring.” These are sentiments echoed by the talented trio of Filipino designers that make up the vanguard of Dubai’s designer elite.
Furne One, known for dressing everyone from Katy Perry and Heidi Klum to Shakira and Jennifer Lopez, made his New York Fashion Week debut earlier this year. Ezra Santos’ big moment came when singer Colbie Caillat scorched the red carpet at the Grammys this year in one of his stunning red creations.
And then there is Michael Cinco, who will certainly be the toast of tinsel town when Jupiter Ascending releases in July because that’s when we will see Hollywood actress Mila Kunis wearing an original Cinco creation.
From local to global
It is only recently that the country’s fashion industry made it big internationally, with UAE-based designers boosted by Dubai’s plans to become a global fashion hub by 2020. Acting as Dubai’s unofficial ambassadors, these talented designers are giving back to the city that served as a springboard for their talent.
For One, despite training in Paris and apprenticing in New York, it was Dubai that gave him his big break when, in 2002, he set up Amato Haute Couture. The immense popularity of Amato compelled Swarovski to commission One to design a glittering bridal dress that was featured in its limited-edition book, Unbridaled.
Although in the business for decades, Santos had his first solo fashion show in 2010. Hosted at Madinat Jumeirah in Dubai, the designer dedicated it to the city’s culture, architecture and multiculturalism.
“The UAE is always inspiring and never fails to amuse me. Dubai has given me the opportunity to have my own atelier. I do love the different cultures and traditions here and, mostly, I am inspired by Emirati women who love fashion because of their passion and unique disposition,” says Santos.
It’s is obvious that the UAE’s business-friendly environment coupled with the legendary Filipino adaptability spells magic. “The Filipinos are an adaptable lot. It may have been influenced by the mix of cultures and races that historically shaped us. It has essentially made Filipinos think and create global,” adds Cinco. And, of course, the UAE, with more than 200 nationalities, is a fertile ground for inspiration.
Cultural influences
Apart from the fact that Dubai acts as a microcosm for the world, One believes that the cultural and aesthetic similarities between the two cultures are responsible for the UAE helping so many Filipino artists gain international fame. “Culturally, the UAE loves art, details, texture and grandeur — this inspires me tremendously.”
All are trailblazers in their own right, but there is no escaping the inherent Filipino aesthetic they collectively bring to the catwalk. There is an unabashed femininity, elegance and the love for fabulosity that seem to be the cornerstone of all their creations.
Cinco, who was inspired by classic Hollywood movies while growing up, terms his work neoclassic: “I like to set trends, but always infuse them with classic sensibilities. That being said, I aspire for my clothes to be future vintage.”
Echoing classical sensibilities are Santos’ creations, which he describes as, “modern classics at best, crisp yet soft in symmetry. They bedazzle, stand out and leave a lasting impression.” Santos is considered one of the most influential figures in the Middle East’s fashion industry and is a perennial favourite of Lebanese singer Haifa Wehbe and Bollywood actors Lara Dutta and Priyanka Chopra.
