Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons presented one of their most liberating collections to date, focusing on fluidity in both architectural design and the portrayal of the male body.
In recent years, the term "fluidity" has become a prominent theme in the fashion industry, often associated with discussions surrounding gender, androgyny, and the inclusion of traditionally feminine elements. However, Prada's latest show provided a more literal interpretation of the concept, redirecting the conversation to a tangible expression of fluidity. Set against the anti-slip stainless steel walls of the Fondazione Prada's Deposito, reminiscent of a construction site, the runway was transformed into an otherworldly environment. As Nine Inch Nails resonated through the space, viscous streams of slime descended from the ceiling, pooling into frothy puddles on the floor and forming a tunnel for the models to emerge. The anticipation was palpable even before the show commenced.
The Prada SS24 menswear collection delved into the examination of the male physique, challenging the traditional exaggeration of masculine form through 1940s-inspired silhouettes characterized by broad shoulders and narrow waists. Raf Simons explained that their intention was to portray the body as dynamic, in contrast to its often static perception in sartorial contexts, where it becomes an architectural construction that restricts movement. To begin their creative exploration, Miuccia and Raf focused on the quintessential white shirt, referring to it as their "ground zero." From there, they embarked on a journey to imbue each garment, be it a denim blazer, leather anorak, tailored suit, sportswear, or cargo vest, with the ease, lightness, and timeless essence of a simple white shirt. The goal was to grant the wearer of their menswear the freedom to move with fluidity.
What remained were an abundance of suits, jackets, and blazers crafted with shirt-like construction, unlined and lightweight enough to be tucked into high-waisted shorts, revealing ample bare thighs. A closer examination reveals jackets adorned with broad shirting cuffs, perfect for rolling up and embracing a more hands-on approach.
The show captured the essence of fluidity, both in architectural design and the portrayal of masculinity. Through meticulous tailoring and an ingenious play on traditional garments, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons celebrated freedom of movement while preserving a sense of classicism. The collection stands as a testament to their ability to push boundaries and challenge conventions, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion industry.
