You've been surfing since you were three. Is it possible for you to imagine a time of your life when you're not on the waves on some kind of board?
Being on the water is part of who I am. It comes as naturally to me as breathing. I can’t imagine not being around water in some capacity.
As part of a sport power couple in great physical shape, is there any competition between you and Gabrielle to stay super-fit? If one of you saw the other starting to pile on the weight, would you tell them off and order them to go on a diet?
When people ask about our training, I say ‘We’re training for life.’ Ultimately, my training really stems from my desire to have a higher quality of life, to sleep better, to eat better. We want to set an example for our children and lead a healthy lifestyle.
As the Puma VOR team's honorary crew member, you'll be flown in to remote areas at sea where they have located rogue waves, and then surf them. Has this ever been done before?
I don’t know if it’s been done before but I do know the crew is going to be in some of the most remote bodies of water in the world, and I want to be there with them to ride those rogue waves. Where they go on the ocean and what they see is going to help me achieve some of my own personal goals of riding the world’s largest waves.
How would you feel if any of your children expressed an interest in following your career?
I want them to do what makes them happy. They have all been raised to appreciate nature and to not be afraid to take risks. It’s exciting to watch them grow and follow their dreams. I believe that you can’t tell your kids what to do, only guide them to try to make smart choices.
What's the longest time you've ever spent without being in the sea?
I try not to go longer than 48 hours, never more than a few days.
How do you unwind when you're not surfing?
Surfing is a huge part of my life but there are so many other things that I enjoy as well - pool training, biking and of course spending time with my family and friends.
You've appeared as a stunt double in a couple of movies. Have you ever thought of pursuing a movie career in the style of Arnold Schwarzenegger?
I don’t see myself becoming a professional stunt double. But I did just have a small speaking role in Alexander Payne’s new movie, The Descendants, which was filmed in Hawaii where I live.
Have you ever surfed in the Middle East?
No.
What have the various near-death experiences that you have had as a surfer taught you about life?
To stay calm. The minute you start to freak out that’s when it all goes downhill. That’s why yoga and under water pool training is a great tool, it teaches you to quiet your mind and to trust your body.
You're an environmental activist and a sea-lover, so what do you think about the man-made islands that are being built in various parts of the Arabian Gulf?
It’s the responsibility of everybody to start in their own neighbourhood to conserve and protect. We all have a responsibility to the ocean to take care of it, and you hope preservation happens on a global scale. We all have the same goals – to protect the ocean, save species, stop polluting and be more environmentally conscious. There should be a sense of pride in taking care of the world we live in.
What advice would you give anyone hoping to take up surfing?
Paddle surfing is just an extension of surfing. Stand-up paddling allows you the ability to be in incredible shape no matter what the conditions are, and it makes you a better surfer. The challenge of trying to paddle into giant waves becomes a sport in itself.
The form
1. If I wasn’t doing this, I would be an inventor
2. The person who’s had the most influence on my life My Mom
3. A fictional character that’s after my own heart Silver Surfer
4. A word or expression that I use a lot Aloha
5. Stuff that I always travel with Board Shorts
Want to paddleboard?
Puma Paddleboarding School
Date: Daily from Jan 1-14
Time: 11am - 5pm
Location: The VOR Racing Village beach
Note: Life jackets available for people who are not proficient swimmers. Kids need to be accompanied by a parent.
