Pakistan: Remembering mountaineering heroes on 70th anniversary of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat

Islamabad: Seventy years after its first ascent, the majestic Nanga Parbat, also called the “Killer Mountain”, continues to attract daring mountaineers from all over the world.

In their pursuit, they pay their respects to the mountain and to the spirit of the legendary Austrian alpinist Hermann Buhl — the first to conquer Nanga Parbat in July 1953, without oxygen, modern equipment, and without compromise.

To celebrate the 70th anniversary of this historic achievement by the German-Austrian Expedition in 1953, a movie screening and photo exhibition was held in Islamabad.

The film “Nanga Parbat 1953” by Hans Ertl depicted the expedition’s struggle to conquer the world’s ninth-highest and Pakistan’s second-highest mountain after K2. Austrian Ambassador Mrs. Andrea Wicke remembered Hermann Buhl as a highly-skilled climber with “deep respect for the mountains”.

The movie portrayed Buhl’s “spectacular solo effort, immense willpower, and unwavering spirit to summit Nanga Parbat” 70 years ago when it was a more treacherous climb without modern equipment.

Glimpses of 1953 Pakistan

For the Pakistani audience, it was surprising to see glimpses of Pakistan from 1953 through the eyes of German and Austrian climbers as they embarked on a long train journey from Karachi to Rawalpindi and onward to Gilgit by plane. Pakistan’s warm hospitality, passion for sports and music, and the country’s breathtaking landscapes were beautifully captured in the documentary.

German Ambassador Alfred Grannas acknowledged Pakistan’s incredible hospitality in his speech, emphasising the significance of the welcoming culture and the support provided to the expedition.

“The historic achievement of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat is the result of the joint efforts of German and Austrian climbers and Pakistani porters, who were the true heroes,” he said.

In a video message, Roland Stierle, President of the German Alpine Association, said that “The Himalayas, especially the Nanga Parbat, had always captivated German mountaineers” ever since it was discovered in 1854. They call it the “fateful mountain” due to the significant number of lives lost in attempts to conquer it.

Story of the first Nanga Parbat ascent in 1953

The movie showcased the remarkable story of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat, capturing the splendid welcome ceremony for the foreign climbers by the pipe band, the Pakistani officials, and local citizens in the Gilgit-Baltistan region. Following a heartwarming meal and tea shared at the base camp, the team embarked on their expedition, surrounded by the rhythm of traditional music and joyful dances of Hunza porters, wearing the bright-colored sweaters gifted by their foreign friends. From the lush green valleys of Hunza and Gilgit to the enchanting journey to Fairy Meadows, the film unfolded the panoramic views of snow-white mountains, sparkling lakes, and the majestic Nanga Parbat.

The incredible first ascent

In the wilderness of the western Himalayas stood the formidable Nanga Parbat, an 8,126 meters (26,660 feet) mountain that had claimed the lives of many daring climbers. Numerous expeditions had attempted to conquer it for years, but all had failed. At least 31 climbers had died on previous attempts. Yet, undeterred by the mountain’s deadly reputation, the German-Austrian team chose to defy fate and leave a mark on history in the summer of 1953.

With their main camp set at a height of 4,000 meters, the climbers began their ascent. As they ventured higher, the glacier cracks became steeper and more ragged, up to a height of about 5,300 meters where they set Camp 2. Forging new traces, crossing the crevasses they continued the journey, finally setting up Camp 4 at 6,700 meters high.

However, adverse weather conditions forced them to seek refuge in Camp 3. For four long days, from June 12 to 16, they endured the snowstorm that raged around their two solitary tents. Yet, they remained resilient, with sun rays bringing glimmers of hope.

On July 1, despite receiving instructions via radio from the base camp to retreat, the four team members, Hermann Buhl, Otto Kempter, Walter Frauenberger, and cameraman Hans Ertl, refused to back down. But from there on, two of their best climbers, Hermann Buhl and Otto Kempter, continued the journey to summit Nanga Parbat, called ‘naked mountain’ in Urdu. This peak is renowned for its three towering rock faces - the Rakot, the Diamir and the Rupal - described as the highest precipice in the world.

Buhl and Kempter established Camp 5 at about 7,000 meters on July 2. With stable weather conditions, Buhl aimed to reach the Silver Saddle at 7,450 meters. On July 3, the Austrian climber departed Camp 5, embarking on the final stretch towards the summit alone, as Kempter encountered some difficulties and followed one hour later but couldn’t catch up with Buhl and decided to return to Camp 5.

Enormous willpower and miraculous summit

On this historic journey, “Every step had required enormous willpower,” according to Buhl’s account. Seventeen hours after he left Camp 5, the 29-year-old Hermann Buhl ultimately conquered Nanga Parbat for the first time on July 3, 1953. On the peak, he proudly placed the flags of Tirol and Pakistan and took photos to immortalise the moment.

After savoring the breathtaking panoramic views from 26,660 feet above, he left behind the ice axe with the Pakistan flag as a symbol and evidence of the ascent. With Tirol’s flag and a stone from the summit, he commenced the descent. With each step, he battled the freezing cold, hunger, and thirst. He spent a sleepless night on a precarious rock, and his feet slowly succumbed to frostbite.

Determined to survive, Buhl set out at dawn, overcoming exhaustion, pain and hallucinations. His willpower carried him back to safety which he had left some 40 hours ago. He was greeted by fellow climbers who celebrated his miraculous triumph of the ‘Killer Mountain’ in our alpine style without oxygen, modern equipment, and high-altitude porter support. In Buhl’s own words: “We did not vanquish this mountain but we climbed it because it was merciful to us!”

Buhl continued his stay in Pakistan among his favorite mountains. Tragically, his adventurous journey came to a premature end four years later in 1957 when he lost his life aged 32 while attempting another daring ascent on Chogolisa.

But his legacy lives on, inspiring generations of climbers to push their limits and conquer the uncharted heights of the world’s tallest mountains. At the 70th anniversary of Buhl’s historic achievement, Austrians, Germans and Pakistanis came together to pay tribute to the hero, who forever left his mark on mountaineering history.

Buhl described the journey in these words: “Mountaineering is a relentless pursuit. One climbs further and further yet never reaches the destination. Perhaps that is what gives it its own particular charm. One is constantly searching for something never to be found.”