Every April, we used to wait for the onset of summer, not because we liked the hot weather but because that was the time we would go to some hill station on a holiday. It was a welcome transition to cool climes and a great relief from the hustle bustle of the crowded plains.
Staying away from home meant a break from the monotonous daily routine — sleeping in the same rooms, eating breakfast, lunch and dinner at the same old dining table and spending time in the familiar drawing room.
It was not only us youngsters, but also my mother who eagerly waited for a sojourn in the hills. Once the dates were finalised, the process of packing up for a 30- or 45-day stay would start in earnest. Members of our large family would try to outdo one another in making the preparations.
My mother would ensure that the homemade pickles and ‘papads’ (poppadums) were packed properly. To underscore her point she would declare that she would rather skip her meal if it did not contain these items.
She ensured that her favourite woollen shawl and a couple of cardigans had been packed. Strolling in some promenade and in the busy markets wearing these light woolies in June was almost a passion with her. And the first thing my nephew would do was to pack his pair of skates that he would roll on in the rink.
Though we had been to other hill stations, our favourite place was Nainital and adjoining places which, in our opinion, provided greater scenic beauty. Boating in the kidney shaped Naini lake, assembling at ‘The Flat’, climbing to Tiffin Top and viewing the glistening Nanda Devi and other snow covered peaks from another hilltop had always provided thrilling experience to tourists.
We fell for Nainital for other reasons too. Having been the summer capital of Uttar Pradesh, we had easy access to it from Lucknow. (It is now in Uttarakhand state.) Nainital has in its vicinity picturesque places like Ranikhet, Almora, Bhowali, Bhim Tal, Naukuchia Tal and Juliekot. In a way, it has been an all-in-one tourist destination, sort of a package deal.
The place was linked with Lucknow with a very comfortable direct train called Kathgodam Express that left at night and reached its destination in the morning. It had blue coaches which when viewed at the track’s curves gave the impression of a huge blue python slithering its way towards the majestic mountains.
From Lalkuan an additional engine was attached at the rear to haul the long train up the steep gradient. Travellers could feel the train struggling to gain speed like a weary participant gasping for breath in a marathon. That gave the travellers a unique experience and the kids an occasion to giggle.
Kathgodam being the terminal, when the front engine reached the dead end it looked like the python having found the hole to go into.
And when you come out on the platform you get the first feel of cool environment that awaits you. A refreshing breeze comes through the dense forests nearby as if to say, ‘Hello, welcome.’ And we say in unison, “What a relief!”
A cup of piping hot tea at a stall on the platform and we’d dash to the bus-cum-taxi stand outside on the second phase of our journey. We’d board the small size buses that groan in the first gear while taking us up and up through serpentine roads. The sun would try to show its might as in the plains below but is not allowed by tall trees and dense forests and small clusters of clouds.
The panoramic scenes captivated us all. Occasional appearance of harmless wildlife on the way made the children in the bus shout in excitement. Midway, vendors would suddenly emerge from somewhere selling fresh strawberries in containers made of big green leaves. It came as a great relief especially to those who had suffered from road sickness.
Finally, we would reach the bus station near the Naini lake, stay at our allotted accommodation and return happily after spending about a month.
That was years ago when we had not heard of global warming. Today, hill stations are as warm as the cities in the plains. The hills are sometimes no better than their artificially cooled houses. These days, don’t be surprised to find ceiling fans in your rooms in the hills.
Lalit Raizada is a journalist based in India.
