Alice Temperley is not just a designer; she is an entrepreneur and a visionary in the fashion world. Twenty-four years ago, she founded her brand, Temperley London, embarking on a dream that has grown into one of Britain's most iconic fashion houses. With a unique style that seamlessly blends vintage charm with contemporary elegance, Temperley has established herself among the most renowned luxury fashion brands worldwide. The British fashion designer shares her journey, replete with challenges and triumphs, and reveals her latest collaborations and projects.
Who is Temperley's woman, and what makes her stand out?
That's a good question. I think she is a very strong woman. She's passionate and well-travelled. I always like to think that the group of women I connect with around the world are like goddesses, kind of warriors. They are a powerful bunch who know themselves and don't follow trends blindly.
Temperley's woman is eclectic. She doesn't follow trends; she mixes things up and finds unique pieces. She dresses for herself and knows her look. She doesn’t need to wear something that's screaming 'now'. She can wear something that's 10 years old, mix it with vintage, and still stand out. She's unique in how she puts things together.
It’s nearly 24 years since founding your brand. Have you realised your initial aspirations?
When you have a business, you go through many loops. I've been through so many challenges. Designing a collection and having your ethos is one thing, but surviving the world climate and an industry that's difficult is another. We're a self-owned brand, and navigating all of this, especially as a single mum, is hard work. But during COVID, I moved back to the countryside, wove a narrative about being at home, having my studio there, and sharing the process of how things are made. This reinvented the brand's story and people's connection with it.
The collections are looking stronger than ever. The one we just shot at Blenheim Palace and showed at Claridge's on Friday is definitely one of our strongest. It’s about knowing what we do well and what we should be doing. Brands evolve with scale, size, people, and teams, and I feel like we're in the best place we've ever been.
What motivates you to persist on the path to success and overcome any fear of failure, especially as a woman?
My dad always pushed us to be workaholics and never thought you could be a success in the creative field. Some of my motivation is proving that this is what I love. I want my brand to outlive me, to have an amazing team, and for people to love our pieces. I've worked hard through many challenges and never want to see it fail. My master's was never in fashion; it was in textile art. I only went into fashion because it supported me through college. I still paint and fantasise about working with artists. I work with the best creators, embroiderers, weavers, and lace makers, which is the part I love the most.
Have you ever feared failure?
Yes, I have. But then you learn to navigate the flows and challenges. I've fought hard when I could have given up many times. As a mother and a business owner, you become tougher than you look.
How would you characterise British fashion?
British fashion is unique, different from Italian, French, or American fashion. Our cultural and historical references are much more evident. Designers here use elements from Victorian times, dandyism, lace, and other historical contexts, making our collections unique. When I started, there weren't many commercial brands out of London because all the best designers went to other big houses. Now there's a whole wave of designers that understand the business, making it quite an important place for fashion again, which is great.
Your designs seamlessly blend vintage and contemporary elements; how do you achieve this balance?
We paint all our prints and design our embroideries from our reference points and mood boards, giving everything our unique handwriting. If something is ornate and beautiful, the shape is simple, making it feel modern. Our pieces are super easy to wear and versatile, not vintage-inspired in vintage shapes but clean and modern.
Craftsmanship is integral to your brand, particularly with intricate embroidery; how do you develop the artisan techniques?
Within each season, we know that we're doing prints, embroideries, jacquards, and different types of embroidery. We look at our reference points and integrate them into our designs. We create a language for the collection that flows through the fabrics and silhouettes. Once we've done all the silhouettes, shapes, patterns, cutting, and textiles, we put it all together, which is the fun part. I love embroidery, lace, and print. It's the mood boards, reference points, and creation process that I enjoy the most.
In your view, what qualities make a piece of fashion timeless?
A timeless piece transcends time; you can wear it now and in 10 years and still feel fabulous. Our tattoo dresses, for example, were designed 15 years ago and are still in demand. Pieces that people keep asking for become part of our heritage collection.
How does Temperley align with the world's increasing embrace of sustainability in fashion?
We're slowing things down by focusing on heritage pieces, which means less development and fewer new items each season. These pieces are timeless and don’t go on sale. Our ready-to-wear and main collections are smaller and primarily use natural fabrics, avoiding polyester. All packaging and shipping materials are recycled and sustainable.
We aim to create less, emphasising quality over quantity. Our bridal business exemplifies this with exquisite, made-to-order dresses that eliminate stock liability and promote sustainability. We prioritise creating heirloom pieces that are special and meant to be treasured for years, rather than producing garments that end up in landfill.
Reflecting on past collaborations, which stands out as the most memorable, and do you have any upcoming collaborations in the pipeline?
One of our standout collaborations was the homeware collection, seeing our prints on walls and fabrics. It shows our prints are timeless. We're expanding into furniture and rugs, bringing Temperley's patterns into people's homes for decades. We're also launching swimwear, lingerie, and more homeware collections soon. We've developed new fabrics, including incredible silk metallic velvets and beautiful vegan leather trenches. After COVID, it's exciting to develop new materials and introduce more day pieces alongside our gorgeous gowns.
