Dubai : The cod alone is worth a visit to Zuma. Wrapped in a hoba leaf and marinated with miso, it's their signature dish, and at Dh155, well worth every fils.
The lunch visit to Zuma, an award-winning Japanese fusion restaurant in Dubai International Financial Centre (DIFC), was long overdue. For the last couple of years, I've heard about their Asian cuisine with a modern twist. But you know what they say about the best intentions…
Tangy start
True to legend, the lunch served was definitely Asian, yet unlike most Asian food I've ever eaten. Although most dishes feature at least one strong Japanese ingredient, the presentation is often minimalist and bordering on Western gastronomy.
Occupying 11,000 square feet over two floors, Zuma features a dining area, a bar and lounge as well as a sushi counter.
As I tucked into my starters, a sharp, tangy Hokkaido scallops tartar with lime soy, shisho and fresh wasabi, my partner opted for the Wagyu Beef Tataki, with ponzu and fresh black truffles. The beef was undercooked to perfection and I couldn't believe I'd swapped truffle for tartar!
Nevertheless, the deep-fried langoustine wrapped in kataifi calmed my frazzled nerves, as did the salmon kondbu sashimi with yukari powder and sevruga caviar. Each finely sliced piece of fish was decorated to perfection with flower petals and served on a well-orchestrated platter.
The sushi, my presumed highlight of the meal, didn't live up to my expectations, based on one fact alone: Wasabi. Although the menu did say spicy tuna maki, I wasn't prepared for the wasabi undertone that overpowered the fish. Fortunately, the sushi nigiri was a delight to the taste buds.
Cod power
For our mains, my partner opted for the spicy beef tenderloin with sesame, red chilli and soy. Tender flesh, a sharp sauce and the crunch of sesame made the dish worth its Dh160 price tag.
However, it was the cod that had me salivating all the way home. The meat was tender and the miso just mild enough to be detected after the initial aroma of the leaf had faded. The dish came together perfectly, with each flavour complementing the next.
With a total bill of over Dh900 for two, plus drinks, I'm not sure if Zuma would be a regular luncheon hangout. However, the lingering taste of the cod may just tempt me back sooner than I think.
