Restaurant review: Qureshis Kebab & Kurry

Whether it is a pair of ghazal singers indulging in vocal gymnastics or some chefs performing culinary jugglery with a roomali roti and skewered kebabs or pretty girls in neatly pinned up saris, balancing a pallu, a smile and a tome-like menu with barely-there poise, going to an Indian restaurant of any repute is like a visit to a circus - a sensory overload. There are times when I wonder if the ‘ringmasters' of the show - the owners, that is - are unsure of the food and hence rely on the spectacle to keep the interest.

So when I entered Qureshis Kebab & Kurry restaurant to sample what they had to offer as part of their ongoing Hyderabadi Food Festival, I was proved right yet again. The restaurant ticked off all the above boxes, except that the food took me by surprise. Expecting a culinary generic spread that had biryanis and kebabs taking centre stage, I was amazed by the sheer variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian mains, each one sounding more exotic than the other.

Relectant to leave my scepticism behind, I decided to try out the vegetarian fare. Since Hyderabadi food is synonymous with mutton and more mutton, I was sure that the chefs would've not paid much attention to the vegetarian fare. But I was proved wrong. Whether it was the starters or the main course, the companion and I, enjoyed every succulent bite of the veggies.

To start with, we ordered Luqmi kebab (samosas with the stuffing of spiced vegetables) and kathal ka Burrah (raw jackfruit steeped in a blend of Peshawari spices and grilled to perfection in a tandoor). My companion, unable to resist the non-vegetarian options, asked for Shikampur kebab (oblong shaped, shallow-fried patties of minced mutton cooked with yellow lentils and spices).

As we settled down to sip on our beverages and nibble on the bite-size pieces it was the accoutrements that left us feeling gluttonous. Tangy-sweet raw papaya chutney, tempered with onion seeds and a mint-coriander number that had us asking unashamedly for replenishments every time we saw a waiter pass by.

When it was time to order the main course, we decided to stick to the strategy - more of the vegetarian stuff. So, it was kaddu ka dalcha (small pieces of bottle gourd dum-cooked with bengal gram and a touch of clarified butter) and palak ka kathli (spinach and two other greens stir-fried with yellow lentils) that caught our attention as we had not come across these anywhere else. My companion, again, succumbed to the allure of a non-vegetarian preparation and ordered Bhurri gosht (spiced and shredded mutton that is supposed to be one of the favourites of the Hyderabadi royalty). It was the bottle gourd preparation that had us scraping the bowl. Absolutely delicious.

In no condition to try out the biryanis or the desserts, we decided to waddle out of the restaurant which was beginning to fill up with patrons who seemed to enjoy both the food as well as the act put up by the chefs, the singers and the pretty girls alike.

Then, who am I to complain? In fact, to tell you the truth, I want an encore.

West 14th 

Prego's

SAILS

Thiptara