For Manish Malhotra, designing couture for brides, particularly the present-day Indian brides, is more than just a passion project. ‘Designing for today’s Indian brides who fearlessly break fashion norms is as exciting as challenging,’ says the Mumbai-based fashion designer who is best known for his spectacular styles that have adorned stars and celebs.
‘Each bride has her unique style and vision for her big day, and it’s my job to make sure that I create something that respects her choices and makes her feel confident and beautiful.’
Couturier, stylist, entrepreneur, filmmaker, and revivalist Manish is known to wear several hats, many of them pretty much at the same time. Starting off as a costume designer in Bollywood films way back in the 80s, the award-winning stylist quickly carved a niche out for himself in the world of design, dressing some of the most well-known faces of Bollywood from Kareena Kapoor, Alia Bhatt and Janhvi Kapoor to Jacqueline Fernandez, Karisma Kapoor and Kriti Sanon, to name just a few.
‘I’ve always been captivated by [films],’ says the 50-something designer to the stars. ‘The beauty, vibrancy of colours, the variety of silhouettes, the movement of embellishments during a dance scene and the sheer grandiosity of cinematic representation... [fascinated and] fuelled my creativity and inspired me to reflect this grandeur in my designs.’
In an exclusive interview with Friday Bride, he shares his thoughts on design, his muses and his latest brand headquarters – the first Indian fashion house to set up their individual design headquarters in Mumbai.
What was the inspiration behind your latest bridal collection?
My latest bridal collection is an ode to colour radiance and the power of architectural inspiration. Shades of empress rose, blush, and rosette pinks dominate the palette capturing the mesmerising ombre effect these hues create. My inspiration is drawn from the architectural grandeur I encounter on my travels – from India’s magnificent monuments to Rome’s ancient structures; the coastal charm of Monaco, the natural beauty of Switzerland, and the intriguing fusion of vintage and futuristic in Middle Eastern designs.
But what truly elevates this collection to the realm of the extraordinary is our signature embellishments and embroideries. Each garment is meticulously adorned with a medley of Swarovski crystals, sequins, and zardozi work, creating a spectacle of sparkling extravagance.
Our use of these embellishments is not merely decorative; each piece is strategically placed to enhance the garment’s silhouette, reflect light beautifully, and add a luxurious depth to the design. Combined with high-quality fabrics and expert craftsmanship, these details culminate in a stunningly opulent and timelessly elegant collection.
Tell us about the challenges and the efforts put in by you and your team for the collection.
As with any collection, the journey had its fair share of challenges. It was a collaborative effort between me and my team. From the conception of designs based on my inspirations to sourcing suitable materials and ensuring impeccable workmanship and quality – every stage was meticulous and needed our full attention. Like every project or collection of mine, for me it’s our dedication to delivering only the best.
You have defined fashion through your work with Bollywood’s top actresses as well as directors over many decades. What do you think is your USP that makes you so relevant?
I think it’s the unique bond of trust that we have developed. They rely on me to understand their individual style, vision, and personality and to translate these elements into my designs. This trust is invaluable to me and is the cornerstone of my work in the film industry.
You have always succeeded in finding a harmony between heritage and silhouette. How you do so?
I find that harmony by using traditional elements in a contemporary context. Heritage can be maintained without restriction, and silhouettes can be modern without losing cultural significance. By marrying the old with the new, the traditional and the contemporary, I seek to craft a fashion narrative that pays tribute to our rich cultural history while reflecting today’s style sensibilities. This approach has enabled me to create pieces that are both rooted in tradition and relevant in our ever-evolving fashion landscape.
My work with Chikankari artists has been gratifying. This art form has immense potential on a global platform. My 10-year association with the Mijwan Welfare Society is vital to my journey.
At a time when India’s brides are breaking all fashion rules – from wearing white to embracing modern silhouettes – how easy or how difficult is it to design for them?
Designing for today’s Indian brides who fearlessly break fashion norms is as exciting as challenging. But that’s what makes fashion so beautiful. Each bride has her unique style and vision for her big day, and it’s my job to make sure that I create something that respects her choices and makes her feel confident and beautiful.
So, how has social media redefined fashion?
Social media has undeniably transformed the landscape of fashion. It has brought a new level of accessibility and immediacy to fashion. Trends are no longer dictated solely by designers and fashion weeks; they are now a democratic process where anyone with a unique style and a smartphone can influence fashion.
It has also provided a platform for designers to directly engage with their audience, understand their preferences, and get instant feedback.
This immediacy and accessibility have made fashion more vibrant and diverse, adding depth and dimension to the fashion world.
Your five favourite style icons.
I don’t know about 5 but my forever favourite is [Bollywood actor] Rekhaji for her timeless grace in her signature traditional sarees.
In the past decade, your work with chikankari artists has given the art form an international platform. What is the future for this particular embroidery and other traditional embroideries as well as weaves?
My work with Chikankari artists has been gratifying. This art form has immense potential on a global platform. My 10-year association with the Mijwan Welfare Society is vital to my journey.
Through this initiative, we’ve empowered rural women, giving them education and employment opportunities via the craft of Chikankari. Integrating this art form in my collections has spotlighted this art globally, boosting both the craft and the artisans behind it.
This shared journey preserves the art form and instils self-reliance among these women. To ensure the longevity of such traditional crafts, we need a united front from designers and the government. Innovation within tradition, skill inheritance, and global advocacy for artisans are key to a thriving future for these arts.
By marrying the old with the new, the traditional and the contemporary, I seek to craft a fashion narrative that pays tribute to our rich cultural history while reflecting today’s style sensibilities.
Tell us about the projects you are working on – films and others.
I am currently juggling several exciting projects, wearing many hats as a couturier, costume designer, and now a director. Each day is a whirlwind of creativity and innovation, from fashion shoots and designing new collections to styling for films.
We have a jewellery launch coming up and then a new store in Dubai plus we are working towards my film projects at my production company. A lot is happening behind the scenes, and I can’t wait to share more soon.
Tell us more about your jewellery line? What inspired to you launch it, your inspirations and your style language.
As clichéd as it may sound, a diamond is forever. A diamond’s beauty, strength and resilience has enchanted the world since before I can remember.
It’s a symbol of timeless emotions, bonds and commitments and cherished moments. Diamonds have been a personal favourite, and I wanted to change the code to modern heirlooms.
I wanted to introduce the diamond bride. The brand’s ethos flaunts a vision of modernity while sticking to our cultural roots. With the launch of my High Diamond Jewellery line, I wanted to infuse these two aesthetics, true to my core values.
A collection which embraces the serenity and versatility of our cultural heritage, yet, caters to the modern bride. Sleek designs that capture the essence of quiet luxury, gemstones sourced from different corners of the world. A new era for modern heirlooms.
What is the legacy you are aiming to create for your brand?
The legacy I aspire to create for my brand is timeless elegance, blending tradition, modernity and, most importantly, the glamour behind it all.
You are a role model for innumerable designers. Whom do you look up to?
Interestingly, my primary source of inspiration didn’t come from a specific designer but from the enchanting world of films. This fascination fuelled my creativity and inspired me to reflect this grandeur in my designs.
You’re the first Indian designer to open a brand headquarters. Tell us about that.
This is an exciting new chapter for us. This workspace, spans over four floors accommodating over 400 people of my work family, and is designed to foster collaboration, creativity, and a harmonious work environment.
My vision was to construct a holistic ecosystem for couture, integrating every facet from production, design, marketing, to the final act of purchase, all under one luxurious roof.
This headquarters doesn’t just set a new standard in the industry but celebrates our commitment to a unified approach in fashion. It’s an exciting fusion of art and luxury, reflective of our brand’s spirit, and I look forward to the innovation it will inspire.
