Life on Grimsey: Where 20 people live among a million birds

Set approximately 40km off Iceland’s northern coast, Grimsey is a windswept island known for its extreme remoteness, thriving seabird population, and unique geographical location within the Arctic Circle. This 6.5-sq-km island is not just Iceland’s northernmost inhabited point but also a natural treasure that draws adventurous travellers seeking its dramatic cliffs, abundant wildlife, and close-knit community.

BBC reports that reaching Grimsey was once a daunting journey, with small boats delivering letters only twice a year until 1931. Today, visitors can take 20-minute flights from Akureyri or three-hour ferries from Dalvik, allowing access to this rocky outpost. However, the journey is still a testament to the island’s remoteness and allure.

A haven for seabirds

Grimsey’s incredible wildlife is one of its biggest attractions. The island’s seabird population — including puffins, Arctic terns, razorbills, guillemots, and black-legged kittiwakes — vastly outnumbers its human inhabitants, estimated at a ratio of 50,000 to one. While the Arctic terns are notorious for dive-bombing unwary tourists, puffins remain a favourite among visitors, particularly in spring and summer when they return in large numbers.

Life on the island

According to Halla Ingolfsdottir, a local tour guide and owner of Arctic Trip, only 20 people live on Grimsey year-round. Ingolfsdottir, originally from Reykjavik, fell in love with the island’s raw beauty and resilient community, deciding to move there full-time in 2019. “People think I moved here for love, but I fell in love with the island,” she told the BBC. “Nature here is powerful, with each season bringing something special.”

Life on Grimsey requires self-sufficiency. The island runs on a single diesel-powered generator and remains off Iceland’s national power grid. Emergency preparedness is vital; locals are trained by the Coast Guard and emergency services to handle crises until external help arrives. A doctor visits the island every three weeks by plane, ensuring that basic medical needs are met.

Community and culture

The settlement of Sandvik, located on Grimsey’s south-western edge, features a collection of homes, many of which double as guesthouses. It also has a cafe, library, swimming pool, and church. The local schoolhouse now serves as a community centre, underscoring the resourcefulness of the islanders.

Grimsey’s rich history adds to its charm. The island’s name is linked to Grimur, a Norse settler, and its importance was first noted in 1024 in the Heimskringla saga. Despite a population decline in the 18th Century due to disease and fishing accidents, the community’s resilience has kept it thriving.

Arctic Circle significance

Located at 66°N latitude, Grimsey celebrates its Arctic Circle location with two monuments. The 2017 Orbis et Globus art installation marks the latitude line and must be adjusted annually as the Arctic Circle shifts. By 2047, when the island no longer falls within the Arctic Circle, plans are in place to ceremoniously roll the sphere into the ocean.

Promising future

The island’s future remains promising. Ingolfsdottir shared plans for a retreat for writers and creatives, utilising renovated homes for longer stays. However, she emphasised the importance of sustainable tourism. “We don’t want mass tourism,” she explained. “One of the things I love about this island is how personal it is.”

Grimsey’s allure lies in its combination of dramatic natural beauty, rich history, and tight-knit community. As Ingolfsdottir aptly concluded, “It’s the sincerity and warmth of the people that make Grimsey feel truly special.”