Pakistan avalanche: How Nimsdai Purja’s last-minute Broad Peak decision changed everything

Nirmal “Nimsdai” Purja’s final expedition began with an unexpected decision — one that could have taken him closer to another historic mountaineering achievement.

Days before he was killed in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan, the British-Nepali mountaineer revealed that the climb was not part of his original plan.

“This was never the plan,” Purja wrote in his final post on X on July 27.

His expedition company Elite Exped confirmed on Saturday that Purja died in the Broad Peak avalanche, along with other members of the climbing team.

The company said it confirmed the deaths with “profound sadness and immense heartbreak”, naming Pur Bahadur Gurung and Nima Sherpa among those lost in the tragedy. It also requested privacy for the families as they grieve.

Why Purja changed his Broad Peak plan

Purja said his original plan was to climb Gasherbrum II (G2) as part of his Hattrick project.

But before leaving for Pakistan, he reviewed his record of 8,000-metre climbs and realised Broad Peak could bring him closer to another milestone.

“Just before setting off for Pakistan, I ran the numbers on my 8000m summits,” he wrote.

“That’s when it hit me: if I tick off Broad Peak whilst I’m here, only one remains — Cho Oyu. Then I become the FIRST person in history to climb all 14 eight-thousanders twice. Without oxygen.”

The challenge would have made Purja the first climber to complete all 14 of the world’s highest peaks above 8,000 metres twice without using supplemental oxygen.

‘Opportunities don’t scream’

Purja said the decision to attempt Broad Peak came after recognising an opportunity he had not expected.

“The Hattrick project was the focus because it carried a bigger mission. But opportunities don’t scream: they whisper to those already working in silence,” he wrote.

The mountaineer also reflected on the mindset that guided his career, saying he never competed with other climbers but focused on improving himself.

“I never competed with anyone else. My only battle was against the man I was yesterday,” he wrote.

“Your heading is YOURS. Guard it fiercely.”

His final words before the climb

Despite his ambition to achieve another record, Purja acknowledged the risks involved in high-altitude climbing.

“Broad Peak, I ask for nothing but safe passage up and back down. I take zero mountains for granted. Not one,” he wrote.

“The moment my foot leaves basecamp, it’s 100%. Always has been. Always will be.”

His message came shortly before he set out on the expedition that would become his final climb.

Rescue efforts after the avalanche

Purja and other climbers went missing after an avalanche struck Broad Peak in Pakistan’s Gilgit-Baltistan region.

Initial reports raised hopes that some climbers may have survived, after tracking devices showed movement following the avalanche.

However, rescue teams later found evidence that the climbers caught in the avalanche had died.

The expedition involved a multinational group of climbers, with Purja leading the team.

Expedition update before tragedy

Days earlier, on July 23, Purja had shared an update from the G2 expedition, describing challenging conditions and delays.

He said his team arrived at base camp later than other climbers and faced delays with their main climbing equipment.

Because team member Nikol was climbing without supplemental oxygen and had completed her previous 8,000-metre summit nearly two months earlier, Purja said they decided to move carefully.

The team reached Camp 1 on July 18 and continued despite difficult snow conditions above Camp 3.

Purja said teams from Elite Exped and Imagine Nepal were working together to open the route, with Sherpas carrying additional ropes to help fix the path higher on the mountain.

“We stay humble and allow nature to either give us a safe passage or not,” he wrote.

From Gurkha soldier to record-breaking climber

Purja became internationally known in 2019 after completing the world’s 14 highest mountains — all above 8,000 metres — in just over six months.

His achievement broke the previous record by several years and was later featured in the Netflix documentary '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible'.

Before becoming a mountaineer, Purja served in the British military, including time with the elite Gurkha regiment and UK Special Forces.

He was awarded an MBE in 2018 for his contribution to extreme high-altitude mountaineering.

‘The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening’

In his final message, Purja addressed criticism he had faced during his career and said he remained focused on his goals.

“They criticised me when I climbed the 14 without O’s during Project Possible,” he wrote, referring to his record-breaking 2019 mission.

“The noise hasn’t stopped. I just stopped listening.”

A mission beyond mountains

Purja said his climbing journey was never only about personal records.

“This one is dedicated to everyone who carried me here. Supporters. Critics. All of you. Without both sides, there is no fire,” he wrote.

He said his purpose was to inspire others to overcome their own challenges.

“My purpose has never been about me. It’s about what I represent. It’s about showing YOU that your own mountains — whatever they are — are climbable,” Purja wrote.

His final expedition ended before he could complete the goal he had set for himself, but his legacy as one of the world’s most accomplished high-altitude