Postcard from Belize

For visitors to Belize, the only English-speaking country in Central America, the options are simple. Head to the coast or head inland, where thick jungles, ancient ruins and meandering rivers provide a different sort of adventure.

I opted for adventures in the jungle. My destination was the Lamanai Outpost Lodge, an award-winning ecolodge located on the 28-mile New River Lagoon.

Down the river

Getting there proved to be an adventure in itself. Picked up by a powerboat, I cruised along a river spotting iguanas, kingfishers and other birds.

With a bit of luck, I could have spotted crocodiles and monkeys, and with a lot of luck, the elusive jaguar. The waters of this freshwater river, fed by underground springs, is so clean you can even drink from it.

Lamanai Lodge is situated close to the Lamanai Mayan ruins, some of the oldest and best preserved in Central America.

The word lamanai means “submerged crocodile'' and I realised the reason behind the nomenclature as I saw a pair of eyes staring at me from beneath the river surface.

I woke up early so I could be the first to explore the fascinating ruins, which were quite close to the lodge. It takes just a few minutes by boat to arrive at the jetty of this ancient Mayan city.

Archaeological records date the place back to 100BC. In fact, human history seems to have carried on in an unbroken stretch here for over 3,000 years, longer than any other Mayan centre.

Some 60,000 people are said to have lived here once. The decline of the Mayan culture, regarded as the most technologically advanced of its time, remains steeped in mystery.

As I walked around among the many Lamanai temples, the mystery refused to leave me.

Who were these poeple? How did they manage to build such giant temples with such simple manpower? Why did they vanish? Above my head, two howler monkeys screeched, their high-pitched bark one of the loudest in nature.

High shrine

The star attraction of these ruins is the High Temple, given the name N10-43 by archaeologists.

With steep stairs cut into stone, the pyramid-shaped temple looks over a former plaza, where people used to gather to witness religious ceremonies.

Rising to 100 feet or so, the view from the top, the highest point of the area, is stunning.

Thick jungle stretches in every direction and the New River Lagoon reflects the early-morning sun.

Looking down from the pinnacle of this ancient city, I could almost imagine thousands of people below.

Robin Esrock is a Vancouver-based travel writer and the co-host of the Nat Geo Adventure series Word Travels. You can follow his adventures at www.moderngonzo.com.