In a city of stories at Edinburgh

My train from London arrives at Edinburgh in the evening and as I walk out from Waverley station, I find myself on the main street in Edinburgh — Princes Street.

With the magnificently lit monument of Sir Walter Scott on my left, the castle behind me and the clocktower on my right, the view is mesmerising.

Every building in this city is a piece of history and being the first Unesco City of Literature, there's always a large choice of theatre shows in the evening and much more.

Sunny side up

If you're in London, a trip to Edinburgh, especially if it's sunny, is a must.

The train journey from King's Cross is just over four hours, so don't fly it. By the time you check in, wait at the airport, catch the flight and land in Edinburgh, it will probably just amount to the same time.

When you arrive in the evening, check into the Glasshouse or the Balmoral. Both are close to each other — Edinburgh is not a big city.

As a boutique hotel, Glasshouse has a close-knit, quieter feel and the suites are fantastic. It is located right next to the Edinburgh Playhouse, the Odeon Cinema and a number of cool dining spots.

If you're at the Glasshouse, visit the Sherlock Holmes statue in Picardy Place close by. This was the birthplace of Arthur Conan Doyle.

The Balmoral has a very central location, right outside of Waverley Station on Princes Street. It also has a spa with a large swimming pool, a lively bar and a Michelin-starred restaurant.

Potter-perfect

One of the suites at the Balmoral is called the J K Rowling Suite: She finished the last of the Harry Potter books while sitting in this suite.

And what's more, the clock tower, one of the most dramatic features of Edinburgh's evening skyline, is part of the Balmoral Hotel.

Notice how it's two minutes ahead of time, a tradition so that travellers using Waverley Station will be in time for their trains.

So after a goodnight's sleep ...

9.30 Head for breakfast at the Balmoral — if you're not already staying there — and enjoy a traditional hearty breakfast while seeing Edinburgh wake up. It's the perfect location, right on Princes Street and at one end of the North Bridge. Just so you know, black pudding and potato scones are two things that make a traditional Scottish breakfast. I opted for the traditional yet healthy option of porridge, which is cooked with water but served with a small helping of cream and brown sugar. Alternatively, if you cross the North Bridge before breakfast, head to Patisserie Florentine on St Giles Street for delicious pastries.

 10.30 Walk across North Bridge and you'll step on to Royal Mile. This street — which, not a surprise, is about a mile long — gives a fascinating insight into Scottish history. Turn right from here and you will see the beautiful St Giles' Cathedral in front of you. It has a history spanning almost 900 years. Go inside to see the huge organ with 4,000 pipes, the Thistle Chapel and the intricate stained-glass windows. It's just outside there — at the Mercat Cross — you can take the 2.15pm history tour from. If you're not planning to do the tour, check out the old Parliament Hall behind the cathedral, which is now the Scottish Courts. The hall has a large, intricate stained-glass window brought over from Munich in 1860s.

11.00 Turn left out of the Cathedral and carry on walking the same way right up to the very end. Here's Edinburgh Castle — it has been the focal point of the city since it was built and is a symbol of ancient mystery. Perched above the city, enjoy the all-encompassing views and don't forget to notice the George Heriot School on your left as you're approaching the castle. It is suggested that this private school was the inspiration for Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry in Harry Potter. It does look magical in the evening.

12.00 After touring the Castle, backtrack to the Royal Mile and after a few minutes, you will see a sign for Camera Obscura in the Outlook Tower to the left of the street. It was established in the 1853 by the optician Maria Theresa Short and gives unrivalled moving views of the city. There are also three galleries that are full of optical experiences.

13.00 Out of here and left again, just keep walking. You will pass the bridge and the cathedral. And then, at St Mary's Street, turn right. A minute's walk down from here will take you to David Bann's restaurant, the best vegetarian restaurant you will find in Edinburgh. You won't be disappointed with the selection and quality of food here — my favourite dish is the Walnut tortellini and parsnip soup and the Thai spicy fritters, which contained a piece of smoked tofu and were served with fresh banana chutney — absolutely mouth-watering.

14.15 Just outside St Giles' Cathedral, meet up with a group of tourists for a guided tour on the Secrets of the Royal Mile, which walks you through and tells you about the history of this city in just 90 minutes. Mercat Tours (www.mercattours.com) also does ghost tours, both in the afternoon and at night. So just remember to check out the schedule and go on whichever tour takes your fancy. If you're interested in the literary history of Edinburgh and happen to be there on a Saturday night, go for the literary pub crawl at 7.30pm (you can get tickets at the Mitre Pub).

16.00 After the tour, backpedal down the Royal Mile again (turning right out of the Cathedral) — en route try some fudge from the Fudge Kitchen on your right — and you'll be at the Scottish Storytelling Centre, on the left of the road. Glance through the exhibition on stories of Scotland, on Robert Louis Stevenson and on the oral tradition of telling stories. There's a lovely little café here, with internet and delicious pastries. If you're interested in the city's rich history with writers, book the writing walk at the Mitre Pub, located just before the Storytelling Centre.

17.00 Now's your main walk. Again, walk back the way you came, towards the castle. Just before the Hub centre (it looks like a church but is actually the central location to buy tickets during the festival), turn left on to Upper Bow and take the stairs down to Grassmarket. This was once a medieval marketplace for public executions but is now known for its food and independent shops. Pop into a few of the boutiques, then to the Bakehouse on your right for high tea. If you fancy smoothies, there's Hula just after Bakehouse.

18.00 Walk back the same way and continue onwards to the end of the street, so you're standing opposite the old building of the National Library of Scotland. If you're a fan of Holmes, this library contains about 60 letters from Sir Arthur Conan Doyle and the manuscript of The Adventure of the Illustrious Client. Turn left here (facing the library) and you're back on the Royal Mile. Cross the road and head down to the other side of Bank Street with the striking old building directly ahead of you — the Museum on the Mound. Take a left and just a minute later, cross at the traffic lights on to Market Street. Right ahead of you is Princes Street. Walk down the stairs here, which lead you over Waverley station and on to Princes Street. As you're walking, notice the striking Scott Monument to your right (opposite Jenners department store), a Victorian Gothic monument to Scottish author Sir Walter Scott. You'll also pass the National Gallery of Scotland on your left, lit red as the Sun starts to set over Edinburgh. Cross the road so you're able to admire the front of this Roman-looking building, the statue on top looking majestic and fiery, lit red against the evening sky.

Whether for some real shopping or window shopping, the road right opposite National Gallery, Hanover Street, has some of the main high-street shops and leads to George Street for more shopping. Turn right on George Street and walk down to St Andrew's Square. Cross over to the other side and you'll land up at Harvey Nichols and a whole parade of high-end shops on Multrees Walk. Look left here — you'll see some great views of River Forth.

20.00 Head to Tapas Tree for dinner. It has a great-tasting extensive and well-prepared menu, with a variety of meat, fish and vegetarian food. It has a fun atmosphere and plays Spanish guitar and hosts Flamenco dances sometimes. Alternatively, if theatre takes your fancy, the Edinburgh Playhouse, right next to The Glasshouse Hotel, is just walking distance and a brilliant theatre. I managed to watch The Sound of Music there.

23.00 Edinburgh has become known for its clubbing scene. With five levels of dancefloors for the young, with different genres of music, Espionage has a buzzing atmosphere. For something more upmarket, try the stylish Opal Lounge, which has five bars and a great menu.

— Meera Ashish is a UK-based freelance writer