For good old times

The aircraft lands, we climb down to the tarmac and enter the rusty edifice that calls itself "Alexandria International Airport".

Unsurprisingly, not many flights land here, and in no time I find myself face to face with an immigration officer. Smiles are exchanged, our passports are stamped and passed on to another officer sitting inside an ancient wooden booth. We — me, my wife and our toddler — are asked to wait. We watch glumly as all other passengers walk past.

About 40 minutes later, the plainclothes officer emerges from the booth with our passports and asks me to accompany him to the Criminal Investigation Department (CID) office next door. Once there, it is question time.

Details for safety

I give our hotel and travel details in Arabic. Pleased with my efforts at speaking his language, the officer assures me he is taking down the details for our safety. But I suspect it has more to do with the word sahafi — journalist — mentioned in my UAE work visa.

After an extended Gulf summer, it was refreshing to be in the Mediterranean breeze. The drive to the town takes you past narrow, winding roads and busy markets. This city of more than 3 million residents is old and charming. There are scores of 19th- and 20th-century European-style buildings along the corniche, most in various stages of dilapidation now. The sight evokes images of old Havana that one sees on television.

We started our city tour with the Al Montazah Palace, which was opposite our hotel resort along the cornice. This grand complex, with a road passing through and gardens on all sides, was the residence of the former royal family of Egypt.

The two most interesting buildings here are the Al Haramlek and Al Salamlek. Entry fee is 5 pounds (Dh3).

The next stop was the Qaitbey Citadel which stood gloriously drenched in the Mediterranean sun. The fort was built in the 15th century to defend the city from invasion by sea. Entry fee is 50 pounds (Dh35). Make sure to climb up to the top of the citadel as it offers amazing views of the harbour.

The area is teeming with tourists from around the world. Don't be unnerved by the numerous plainclothesmen with semi-automatics dangling from holsters. They are members of the tourism police — shoorta siyahi. Since a shooting attack in Luxor in 1997, which left more than 50 foreign tourists dead, the Egyptian government is taking no chances.

Bargains galore

Outside the citadel, there are rows of vendors selling the usual souvenirs one associates with Egypt. Bargain hard, as the vendors will often quote you a price that is double or triple what they will eventually accept.

Gestures count in Egypt. For instance, if a vendor says something is 100 pounds, express wide-eyed horror or slap your thighs in laughter and tell him you will only pay 30 pounds. He is likely to come down to 50 pounds.

The Qaitbey Citadel stands at the site where the ancient lighthouse once stood, one of the original Seven Wonders of the World. It was destroyed, like much of ancient Alexandria, by a series of earthquakes more than 1,500 years ago. Indeed, many of the ruins of the ancient city lie just metres under the surface of the water.

Alexandria, of course, was named after Alexander the Great. But the great emperor stayed there only for a few months, and the city's most famous resident was Cleopatra, who made it her capital and famously hosted Julius Caesar and Mark Antony. Even today, Alexandria has a Greco-Roman feel to it.

City tour

Bibliotheca Alexandrina
We then headed to one of the city's most recognisable buildings, the fabulous Bibliotheca Alexandrina, which is on the other side of the harbour.

This is a modern architectural marvel built to replace Ptolemy's ancient library, which was destroyed around the same time as the lighthouse.

It was said to be the biggest library in the ancient world and had more than 500,000 scrolls and manuscripts.

Ptolemy would have been pleased to learn that the new library, built at the cost of $220 million (Dh807 million), has space for at least six million books.

Entry into the building costs £E30 (Dh20); cameras are not allowed inside. And don't forget to check out the bust of Alexander outside.

Kom Al Shouqqafa
Had a donkey not fallen to its death 107 years ago, Alexandria's best attraction would have remained a secret. But the donkey cart did fall into a pit and the catacombs were discovered.

The area is called Kom Al Shouqqafa (pile of shards), and is located in the run-down Karmouz district of the city.

The amazing Roman burial site comprises three underground floors cut into rocks, containing tombs more than 2,000 years old.

It is an eerie yet unforgettable feeling walking down the 99 steps around a shaft that was used to lower bodies with the help of ropes.

Go there...Alexandria

From the UAE
From Dubai: Emirates flies daily. Fare from Dh1,680
Egypt Airways flies three times a week. Fare from Dh1,450
— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04 3166160

Where to eat
Alas, no city in Egypt is known for the quality of its restaurants and Alexandria is no exception. However, I heard there are a few good restaurants, if you like fish. We did not, and hence stuck to good old American junk food.

Where to stay
We stayed at the four-star Aifu Horizon Resort by the corniche. At Dh250 a night, it is excellent value for money.

Information
An army of rickety, black-and-yellow Lada taxis plies the streets and you can wave one down just about anywhere. Meters don't work, of course, and hence, you must fix the price before you board it. It is rarely more than 20 pounds (Dh13) within the city. We booked a private cab through our hotel for a day tour (450 pounds or Dh299).

Visas: Citizens of most countries need a visa to visit Egypt. It can be obtained for Dh65 from the Egyptian Consulate in Dubai. Ph: 04 3971122.