A rocking career

In a career spanning more than two decades Eric Valdieu has handled some of the most beautiful, rare and valuable jewels in the world.

As vice-president and head of Christie's jewellery team in Switzerland, he is responsible for organising the auction house's Geneva sales in May and November and a winter auction in St Moritz.

Valdieu was in Dubai recently for an exhibition to showcase a selection of items from various Christie's auctions set to take place in the next few months. Valdieu had brought several stunning pieces from Christie's "Magnificent Jewels" auction to be held on May 16 in Geneva.

These included a 100.6 carat orange-brown briolette-cut diamond estimated at $1 million (Dh3.67 million), a rose brooch with 5,000 rubies set in titanium by contemporary designer Michelle Della Valle, a magnificent aquamarine and diamond art deco Cartier bangle and an exquisitely crafted ruby and diamond necklace by Harry Winston. tabloid! spoke to the jewellery expert about his job and latest trends in the jewellery market.

What is your role as a jewellery specialist?

With the help of our offices worldwide, I try to find as many attractive and saleable items as possible and to establish connections with potential buyers. Often sellers do not know much about the piece and so we try to trace its history. I advise the sellers on the best price estimate and what they can eventually expect to get for a piece and also the best market where the piece could be sold. Similarly I advise buyers on what would be a good purchase.

How do you evaluate a piece of jewellery?

Various elements influence the value of a jewel. Certain items only have a stone value, whereas others could have a special design signed by a famous jeweller, be from a historically important period or have an important historical provenance such as royal, imperial or celebrity owners. Based on our experience, knowledge of history and of the market, we have to evaluate the importance of each factor and combine these elements to suggest an estimate to the seller. But buyers can make a big difference in the value of an item. A dream auction is one where the piece sells for much more that anyone could imagine because more than one buyer is desperate to have the piece.

Of all the valuable jewels you have handled, which is your favourite?

I handle pieces ranging in value from $1,000 (Dh3,670) to many millions and I feel as enthusiastic today about every new piece as I did when I started two decades ago. One of my favourite pieces is a ruby and diamond necklace made by Cartier in the art deco style for the Rajah of Navanagar with rubies provided by the rajah. It is one of the most elegant, beautiful, well-made and unforgettable pieces of jewellery I have seen. The 78 carat Archduke Josef diamond that we auctioned 15 years ago was one of the most beautiful stones I have ever seen.

Since last year Christie's has had three auctions and four exhibitions in Dubai. Why this sudden interest in the city?

We are always looking for new venues, new artists and new collectors. Dubai has them all and being a multicultural city the diverse tastes of collectors here enables us bring a variety of items for sale. Five years ago we realised how important Dubai has become and started planning exhibitions here. Since then the city has been growing at a tremendous pace and we are amazed at how much it accounts for in the Middle East and how much is possible here.

What is your advice to new collectors?

Collectors must take time to educate themselves first. Do a little bit of homework before you buy anything. My advice is to go for exhibitions like the one we brought here and study the quality, workmanship and provenance of different items. Study the catalogues and speak to our experts to get as much information as possible about the items that interest you. Go to auctions to understand how they work and what different things are worth. Then you are ready to start buying.

What are the latest trends you see at jewellery auctions?

The focus today is on contemporary jewellery. Clients do not want to buy just a stone anymore; they want it to be set in special ways. They are increasingly drawn to the work of new designers who are bringing in new ideas and new styles of mounting stones. Among the most popular of these new designers are Paris-based designer Jar, Hong Kong-based brand Carnet, Lorenz Baumer, who also designs for Chanel and Michelle Della Valle, who belongs to the Givenchy family.

Do you see more women participating in the auctions today?

The number of women coming to buy jewellery for themselves has been increasing over the last 15 years. The main difference is that women buy jewellery while men buy stones.

Coming up

Islamic Art and Carpets in London on April 17
Magnificent Jewels in Geneva on May 16
Post-war and Contemporary Art in New York on May 16
Impressionist and Modern Art in London on June 18
Orientalist Art in London on June 26
Collectors in this region can place absentee bids or participate in the auctions via telephone or the internet.