On the spice trail at Chatkhara

In recent years, Karama has evolved into one of the most exciting budget dining scenes in the city. And while high profile restaurants have drawn much of the attention, there are plenty of terrific eateries that have been waving their soup spoons for long, largely unnoticed by foodies.

Chatkhara (meaning "spicy") is just month-and-a-half-old, and is doing quite well for itself, as evidenced by the groups of 20- and 30-somethings sipping lassis and nibbling on the terrific kebabs on our visit. It's the place to go if you crave comfort food that is at once exotic and familiar — a good mix of traditional curries and fast food. Takeout is all but presumed here, though the restaurant capably cares for those who choose to sit down over breakfast, lunch and dinner. The restaurant is bright, clean with colourful leather chairs and white tables lining the large street-facing glass windows.

Early on a Saturday night the scene at Chatkhara is heating up with smoke-laden aromas from spice-crusted, tandoori-charred meats. The menu, short and tight, lists but doesn't describe the dishes offered (the regulars probably already know their favourites), appended by daily specials on a chalkboard. Chatkhara courts the worker bees amongst us whose tastes have been shaped by the mongrel mix of Indian- and Pakistani-inspired fast food — within 10-15 minutes your food lands on your table.

What not to miss 

Some of the dishes I'd pick for my "things to taste before you die" list. The first to try is chicken boti roll (Dh9) and chicken reshmi kebab roll (Dh10) — chunks of flavour-infused meats wrapped in paratha with lush chutney and seasoning — they pack an unmistakable punch. Note: If you love shawarma, you will love this even more.

Also don't miss the chicken-stuffed chilli poppers (Dh10), served with chutney, again. The chilli poppers hit you in a rush of creamy, cheesy and spicy as irrepressible as the heat of a desert afternoon, celebrating each diner's quest for fire — a heat-seeker's dream.

But this is just the start of a meal at Chatkhara.

The mixed grill platter (Dh38), consisting of chicken reshmi kebab, mutton behari kebab, beef seekh kebab and chicken malai botti scream with original flavours, and, accompanied by naan, recall dozens of Mughlai meals. Similarly, the chicken biryani (Dh15), with meat so tender and finely spiced minty aromas, could've been cribbed from a Hyderabadi kitchen. Though both resemble dishes from other cuisines, they're not imitations. They are cross-cultural interpretations good enough to stand on their own.

Another favourite is nihari lamb curry (Dh18). This stewed lamb is powered by a staggering quantity of spicy seasonings adding a brilliant punch of heat. It is with this dish that you realise this cooking is more about the sauce. It begs to be soaked up with the steamy tandoori naan.

Come dessert, follow the crowd and have soft, syrupy sweet gulab jamuns (you might want to share this one). Or try the intensely rich and satiny lassi. Might as well go out on a lilting sweet note. It's worth seeking out.

Chatkhara: Shop 6, Building R421, Za'abeel Road, near Karama Post Office.

Call: 04-3583676

Decor: Fresh and vibrant

Ambience: Unpretentious. Can get loud, but not unbearably so.

Must-haves: Chicken stuffed chilli poppers, chicken botti rolls, chicken biryani