Young and emerging UAE talent shut out from DFW catwalk

Dubai:  Visitors to the Dubai Fashion Week will probably wonder where the UAE's young talent is to be found.

Although organisers are showcasing the ‘Emerging Talent' competition winners for the first time this season, UAE students and fresh graduates are conspicuous by their absence.

"It's a shame when you have so much emerging talent here and you don't ask them to participate," said French Fashion University Esmod (FFUE) Dubai director and founder Tamara Hostal.

Hostal said organisers brought universities and students on board in previous years but did not approach the FFUE this time around.

"With this kind of event they are now looking more at famous names to promote their events — that's why they don't do much for emerging talent."

Saqib Suhail, head of the Fashion Design Department at Preston University, Ajman, said the exclusivity of the event has increased this year.

"They should have a student category because that is where the emerging talent is."

Cost was another barrier. Suhail said students needed 15 outfits which cost about Dh2,500 each.

Vanessa Northway, academic head and senior teaching fellow at the Heriot-Watt University Dubai School of Textiles and Design said it was "strange" that there were no UAE students participating but said she believed it had to do with the economy.

"I think it's a huge expense and companies would weigh the cost of exhibiting and the cost of getting value back."

Canella Hostal, a recent graduate from FFUE, expressed regret at not being able to compete due to the show's new structure and restrictions in place.

DFW co-founder and director of fashion Marc Robinson said: "Fashion week is not for talent from universities. It's for designers who have been around for a while."

He said DFW opened up the event to universities during the first two seasons when it was "very new and struggling to get designers on board. But with the passage of time, when GCC and local labels started participating, we understood that the need of fashion week is the business of fashion."

Robinson also believes the gap in quality between established designers and students worked against their inclusion at the event.

"You can't put raw talent on display just because they are from Dubai. The media and industry would be hard on them."

Another reason the DFW may be an unsuitable platform for students is because they may be unable to supply garments in bulk if approached by buyers.

Production

"Some of the stores would like to buy, we don't sell. When you are a company, you need to have a range of products and at Esmod we are not able to produce. Maybe in future we will do this," Hostal said.

Preston University has looked at other competitions to showcase students' work. This year, the institution took part in nine events and won eight awards, including first place in the emerging talent segment of ‘Bride Show Dubai', second place in ‘Bride Show Abu Dhabi' and first prize in the ‘Maybelline-Born To Be' competition.

"I don't think DFW is the appropriate place for students because it's meant to promote trade and buyers from different parts of the world attend," said Javeria Pasha, chairperson of the fashion department Manipal University, Dubai Campus.

International counterparts

UAE students measure up well to their international counterparts, Suhail said. However, their ability to translate designs into garments was a concern when he took over the design department almost 18 months ago.

"I found that students are willing to design but not willing to stitch and make patterns. That is changing and we are making sure they are doing their garments themselves."

Hostal said students managed to secure internships and jobs at fashion houses both in the UAE and abroad. Most students remain in fashion design but some already own boutiques or take opportunities in pattern making, which is in demand.

Suhail said large fashion events were creating stars of winning entrants overnight.

"In Ajman, Splash and Roxx are willing to give students space on the racks," he said.