Neo-vintage wave sees return of the bi-compax chronograph

Yema Speedgraf: Bi-compax is the designation for a dial with only two subdials – one register for the small seconds, usually at the 9 o’clock position, and one for the timed minutes, usually at 3 o’clock. This type of display has been around since the early 20th century and is currently seeing a rebound in popularity. Inspired by the classic chronographs the French brand made in the 1960s, the Yema Speedgraf has a strong 1960s vibe. It’s the kind of watch you would expect to see on Steve McQueen as he caned a Ford Mustang through downtown San Francisco. The watch has a 39 mm stainless steel case topped by a domed sapphire crystal and fitted with a bi-directional bezel with a black aluminium insert. The high-contrast dial layout sees a 30-minute counter at 9 o’ clock while the running seconds hand is at 3. A telemeter scale is placed on the periphery of the dial and self-winding Seiko NE86 movement is the beating heart of this watch. This is a limited edition of 300 pieces. PRICE: $1,499 (Dh5,500)

Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Chronograph: Inspired by the aesthetics of classic automobiles, chronograph is available in three variants. The watch uses a 42mm diameter stainless steel or rose gold plated case fitted with a convex sapphire crystal over the dial. The piston-shaped chronograph pushers have a grooved surface for better grip. The bi-compax chronograph layout has a 30-minute counter at 3 o’ clock and a running seconds hand at 9. An exhibition caseback allows us a peek of the self-winding FC-397 chronograph movement. A modular chronograph movement reportedly based on an ETA movement, the 25 jewels caliber beats at 28’800 per hour (4 Hz) and delivers 46 hours of power reserve. PRICE: $3,095 (Dh11,366, rose gold-plated) and $2,795 (Dh10,264, steel).

Alpina Startimer Pilot Heritage: Alpina has a history of making affordable Swiss watches. The aviation-inspired Startimer collection for the first time features a stylish bi-compax monopusher chronograph. Delightfully retro, this watch has a 40-mm cushion case and looks straight out of the 1970s. For the uninitiated, a monopusher chronograph uses just one button (or pusher) to start, stop, and reset the stopwatch function. The counter at 3 o’ clock measures up to 30 minutes and is balanced by running seconds counter at. This watch’s engine, the Caliber AL-727, was designed by movement specialists La Joux-Perret. PRICE: €2,895 (Approx. Dh11,730)

Breitling Top Time: A re-issue of a chronograph Breitling made in the 1960s, the has a distinctive dial layout - its two parallel white sub-dials framed by a black domino-mask-like motif has earned it the nickname “Zorro dial”. The stainless steel case measures 41 mm in diameter, with a convex sapphire crystal, a non-screwed, single-gasket crown, and plunger-style chronograph pushers. A limited edition of 2,000 pieces, the watch is powered by the chronometer-grade Breitling Caliber 23, a self-winding chronograph movement based on the ETA 7753 with a power reserve of around 48 hours. PRICE: $4,990 (Dh17,995)

Montblanc Heritage Monopusher Chronograph: The vintage-inspired Heritage Monopusher Chronograph with its beautiful salmon dial is the most expensive proposition in this line-up. The minutes register at 3 o’ clock has indications at 3, 6, and 9 minutes, a nod to the payphone indictors of chronographs made in the 1940s (the counters would let users know when to feed the payphone whilst they were using it). Featuring a polished 42 mm wide stainless steel case topped by a retro-styled sapphire glass box, this watch runs the Caliber MB25.12 (a Sellita SW510 movement made exclusively for Montblanc) and is paired with a Sfumato alligator leather strap. PRICE: €4,700 (Approx. Dh18,900)