Paris Fashion Week: Highlights from Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, AMIRI
Rick Owens
The invite to Rick Owens' latest Paris Fashion Week Men’s A/W 2024 show was a loop of jersey fabric, stitched with 'Porterville', named after Owens' hometown. The show, hosted at his Parisian home, marked a departure from his usual grand presentations at Palais de Tokyo. Owens, expressing a 'respectful restraint' amidst challenging times, presented an intimate collection. Shaggy forms offered a warped comfort, while architectural puffer jackets suggested protection. Softness prevailed in all-in-one 'space suits' of recycled cashmere and merino, some adorned with sequins in branch-like structures. Darker elements featured garments dwarfing the body and recycled motorcycle tire creations by rubber-wear specialist Matisse Di Maggio. Owens described the collection's proportions as a reaction to disappointing human behavior, yet infused with an eternal utopian hope.
Louis Vuitton
Pharrell Williams set the tone for Paris Fashion Week by presenting Louis Vuitton's spring menswear show, a spectacle of sharp, intricately adorned American West ensembles. The runway embraced Native American drumming as models showcased silver-tipped cowboy boots, denim chaps, wide-brimmed hats, and silky western shirts with pointed collars. Turquoise studs adorned suits, and sequined jackets shimmered with Louis Vuitton logos. This marked Williams' third show since undertaking creative direction for the menswear line last year.
AMIRI
AMIRI brings a Hollywood saga in this show, portraying young idols evolving into timeless icons. The new guard exudes contemporary refinement—easeful, free-spirited, and daring. Against the backdrop of a Los Angeles-inspired venue resembling a movie theater, the velvet curtain sets a cinematic motif. Eras collide, intertwining Old Hollywood allure with the irreverence of the '90s. Rebellious yet romantic, rising stars deconstruct American tuxedos into loose, thrifted fits. High-waist trousers and oversized belts add a skate sensibility. The collection mirrors the iconic interiors of LA's movie theaters, incorporating rich tones and luxurious fabrications. AMIRI's high-craft shines through geometric patterns, intricate detailing, and a combination of classic and casual, creating a distinctly American narrative. The debut of the Sunset Skate sneaker and other accessories completes this immersive journey.