Couture Fashion Week: Highlights from Chanel, Dior, Schiaparelli

Chanel

Chanel's Spring/Summer 2024 haute couture runway show today not only showcased the latest collection by creative director Virginie Viard but also spotlighted a singular style element: the button. In anticipation for the show, CHANEL presented a short film titled 'The Button.' Crafted at the behest of Virginie Viard, this fictional narrative, brought to life by pgLang and directed by Dave Free with a soulful score by Kendrick Lamar, as actress Margaret Qualley embarks on a quest to find a missing button from her CHANEL jacket cuff. For the show, the oversized prototype of the iconic interlocking C jacket button took center stage, serving as a majestic symbol of both elegance and functionality, suspended over the Parisian runway. Models graced the catwalk with fresh-faced looks, this minimalist aesthetic harmonized perfectly with the collection's ballet influences, which included dance-inspired leotards, tights, and an abundance of tulle and lace.

Dior

Much like an enchanting labyrinthine thread, the concept of "aura" weaves through the entirety of Dior's haute couture spring-summer 2024 collection envisioned by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Delving into the diverse allure of textiles, the Creative Director engages in a spellbinding and innovative conversation with Isabella Ducrot, the mastermind behind the show's scenography named Big Aura. Twenty-three larger-than-life silhouettes are arranged on an irregular black grid, reminiscent of warp and weft, symbolizing the unique aura enveloping each haute couture piece.

Elevated by sophisticated moiré, a technique cherished by Christian Dior, the ensembles re-imagine La Cigale, conceived by Monsieur Dior for autumn-winter 1952. Coats with commanding collars, voluminous skirts with dramatic cut-outs, layered ensembles, and tailored pants and jackets contribute to the collection's sculptural narrative.

Schiaparelli

Schiaparelli's spring 2024 haute couture show, orchestrated by creative director Daniel Roseberry, unfurls a cosmic universe inspired by the label's astrological heritage. Rooted in Elsa Schiaparelli's childhood fascination with the stars, the runway at Petite Palais in Paris transformed into a celestial haven. The collection, attended by stars like Zendaya and J.Lo. Sculpted dresses ascended to astral heights, and one gown provocatively blended circuit boards, cell phones, and Y2K relics, symbolizing a captivating fusion of antiquated technology with avant-garde haute couture. Roseberry's creation marks a pivotal intersection of fashion and celestial realms.

Rahul Mishra

In his Spring 2024 couture collection, Rahul Mishra delves into the world of insects and reptiles—fireflies, moths, and dragonflies. Drawing attention to the peril faced by the insect kingdom due to diminishing biodiversity, Mishra challenges the conditioned human aversion to these creatures, deeming them beautiful "superheroes." Referencing D.H. Lawrence's "Snake," Mishra uses hand-embroidery to meticulously recreate the forms of insects and reptiles on his bedazzled garments. The collection, adorned with vibrant hues and Indian lattice patterns, celebrates nature's guardians and serves as a bold proclamation against their endangerment and extinction.