I begin with a word of advice for those planning a cruise trip in Oman: going through the UAE and Oman borders can take some time. There are only two slow counters on the Omani side, so patience is a must. But the wait is worthwhile because the drive from the border along the Omani coast is breathtaking.
For about half an hour, a group of us admired the turquoise waters while following the zigzagging road between the coast and its unspoilt beaches and the towering Hajar Mountains, passing several Bedouin villages. Khasab, the local capital of the Musandam Peninsula, is 500km from Muscat and 250km from Dubai.
Once we arrived at the harbour town of Khasab at 10am, we met our tour organisers from Khasab Diver and embarked on a traditional wooden dhow with cushions and carpets on the floor. There’s nothing fancy and modern about the boat (one level, small toilet, no open deck area) but that’s what contributes to the charming aspect of the cruise. Our Omani guide and captain Ahmad Al Shehi, who has spent all his life in and around the Musandam fjords, welcomed us on-board. “When I was born, my mother washed me with seawater,” he told me.
Khasab Diver provides services to divers and adventurers from overland tours to underwater expeditions. The company offers tailored-made programmes including dhow cruises, snorkelling and diving trips, kayaking, beach camping and parties.
For about half an hour, we headed through a majestic 25km fjord to the Strait of Hormuz, the northern tip part of Oman, known as the Key of the Gulf because it’s the only way to access the Gulf by sea. The scenery was spectacular with the naturally carved limestone mountains rising sharply out of the turquoise and crystal-clear waters. As we continued towards Shem Fjord we passed near several small remote villages only accessible by boat.
There are five villages in the Shem Fjords, Al Shehi said. Shem, Nadefe, Qana, Maglab and Sebe.
The dhow then slowed down as we were approaching a good spot for dolphin watching. And sure enough, we all got excited like little children when we saw a group of short-fin dolphins swimming gracefully in and out of the water. Everyone got their camera out and tried to get the best shots of the friendly grey mammals.
After that, we all wanted to get into the water, so the captain took the dhow to Telegraph Island, a lozenge-shaped outcrop, where lay the ruins of telegraph cable buildings established by the British Royal Navy in the late 19th century. We put our snorkelling gear on and jumped out of the boat to swim around the island, marvelling at the quantity of beautiful and colourful fish — blue and yellow, green and yellow, black and green, red. “There are so many fish because of the rocks. They come to feed on the corals,” Al Shehi said.
After a while, I swam to the island and went on a little exploration trip. Walking carefully on the sharp, small rocks (a friend cut her foot pretty deep), I headed alone to the other side of the island and sat on a large rock overlooking the fjords. I was at peace while admiring the dancing reflections of the sun in the intense blue water.
Back on the dhow, it was time for lunch. The captain prepared grille
d fish and chicken kebabs served with a rice salad, fruits and refreshments. Some of us then jumped and dived from the top of the dhow while others relaxed in the sun. We left Telegraph Island to stop at a different spot, Sebe Island, located at the end of the fjords, to snorkel some more. There, the captain put his mask on and went diving, bringing us several sea creatures including a thick, black sea cucumber (not the most attractive living thing).
Just before sunset, a few of us got to scuba dive at a shipwreck site called the Landing Craft. I put all the necessary equipment on, quickly went through the diving basics with my partners and jumped off the boat. The water was pretty salty because we all needed to add more weights to be able to go down. Following Al Shehi, who dived in a white t-shirt and “skirt” (worn under the kandura), we went about 8m deep, and our eyes got bigger and bigger as we approached the wreck, laying on the seafloor since 1990. It felt a bit like discovering treasure.
The 35m-long craft was purposefully sunk to bring more corals and create a diving site. As we swam around the remains, we could see many fish and sea life. I was hoping to have my first encounter with a shark, knowing that I would be petrified at the first sight of a caudal fin, but such introduction didn’t happen. The moon was out and it was time to get back to the port.
From wreck to reef
Not long before sunset, our captain Ahmad Al Shehi guided a few of us to a fascinating scuba diving site, the Landing Craft, which offers divers a chance to practise their wreck diving and penetration skills.
Positioned 3.5 kilometres from Khasab harbour at a maximum depth of 10 metres, the sheltered site is suitable for new divers although it is not encouraged to get too close to the sunken boat. The craft, which was purposely sunk in 1990, measures 35 metres by 7 metres and stands 3 metres tall at its highest point.
The boat was a landing craft specialising in carrying water to the villages that were not able to receive water by road. The vessel was one of three boats, each named after one of the villages they frequented with the load. The hull of this one, called The Musandam, spilt with age so it was decided it would be decommissioned.
A light aircraft, which had been grounded at Khasab airport for more than two years, was loaded aboard the boat and sunk at sea at the same time.
Covered in corals and inhabited by loads of different fish (we didn’t see big ones or turtles but were told they often swim in and around the site), the wreck makes for an exciting diving experience.
Alternative tours
Khasab Travel & Tours
Dhow cruise to the fjords of Musandam
Cost: Dh200 per adult for full day, Dh150 per adult for half day (excluding lunch)
www.khasabtours.com
Oasis Palm
Two-hour romantic dinner cruise on a traditional wooden dhow from one end of the Dubai Creek to another.
Cost: Dh150 per person (pick-up between 7-8pm and drop-off between 10.30-11pm)
www.opdubai.com
Dolphin Khasab Tours
Dhow cruise in Musandam, which includes dolphin watching and snorkelling
Cost: Dh170 per adult (Dh85 under 8) for full day (including lunch, soft drinks and snorkelling equipment), Dh120 (Dh60 under 8) per adult for half day (excluding lunch)
www.dolphinkhasabtours.com
Spot the species
Sea and land creatures native to the area:
II Long-fin and short-fin dolphins
II Various fish species including hammour, barracuda and parrotfish
II Hammer shark
II Turtle
II Sea cucumber
II Stone coral
II Lobster
II Squid
II Pelican
II Mountain goat
Directions to Khasab port from Dubai
Take Emirates Road (311) and pass Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain until you arrive in Ras Al Khaimah.
At the end of Emirates Road, turn right at the roundabout to enter Ras Al Khaimah and pass an Adnoc petrol station.
At the first signal, next to KFC, continue straight and turn right at the next roundabout.
Pass an Emirates petrol station, go straight at the next two signals and turn left at the next signal.
At the next two signals, go straight and continue straight at the next roundabout.
Turn right at the following roundabout and pass the police headquarters.
Turn left at the end of this road and continue straight until you reach the UAE-Oman border.
Along the way, always follow the directions to Shams, Oman border.
From the border, follow the main road along the coast pass through different villages: Tibat, Bukha, Al Jari, Hana.
Then Golden Tulip Hotel will be on your left-hand side. Continue straight along the coast.
When you enter Khasab, continue straight as you pass a first port on the left. At a small roundabout, go straight again until you see the Lake Hotel on your right-hand side.
There, turn left and pass in front of a fort. Follow the road and turn left at the end, you will see the port.
Pick your choice
Khasab Diver’s other tours:
Boat cruise:
Dh200 per person for full day (9am to 4pm), Dh150 per person for half day (1-4pm)
Includes lunch, soft drinks and snorkelling equipment
Scuba diving with a guide:
Dh360 per person for full day including two dives (one dive can be planned at night time), Dh250 per person for half day
Includes lunch, soft drinks and diving equipment
Camping on a beach:
Dh300 per adult per night or Dh600 for a tent for two people
Includes camping set up, dinner, soft drinks and breakfast
Party and night on a beach:
Dh420 per person per night (cruising time of about an hour to the island and back)
Includes camping set up, dinner, soft drinks, sound system and breakfast on the boat
Kayak excursion with a guide:
Dh350 per adult for full day, Dh200 for half day (half price for children under 16)
Includes lunch on a beach, soft drinks and equipment
Equipment rental:
Kayak: Dh200 for 24 hours, Dh130 for 12 hours
Diving equipment: Dh150 per day
Oxygen tank: Dh60
Snorkelling equipment: Dh20 per day
For more information, visit www.khasabdiver.com
