Present perfect China

The Olympic Countdown Clock in Tiananmen Square is ticking off the remaining seconds until 8pm on August 8 when, after decades of aspiration and years of planning, Beijing, China, will ignite the flame of the second Olympics of the third millennium.

The much-publicised and often controversial Beijing Olympic Games has been the catalyst for one of the biggest makeovers the ancient city has ever seen.

As whole neighbourhoods are razed overnight to make way for the new, the city seems a swirling mix of the past, present and future, which, in some ways, is still trying to sort itself out.
Cutting-edge city

Though the cranes and cement mixes are a visible part of the urban landscape, Beijing is beginning to discover the value of its past.

While many visitors will be looking for a true Chinese experience, for the tuned in and turned on, Beijing is as cutting edge as it gets.

Grab what's there while it's hot, because it may be gone tomorrow in this fast-paced city.

The Beijing makeover is evident as soon as you arrive at the gleaming new international airport.

Designed to resemble a dragon when seen from above, this massive structure was conceived by British architect Norman Foster.

But today, Beijing is sprinkled with new and awe-inspiring buildings, such as the China Central Television building, which spell out pure design.

The favourable world reaction to the main sporting arenas at the Olympic Park has boosted morales across China.

The National Stadium, nicknamed the Bird's Nest, and the unique Aquatics Centre with its bubble exterior and blue illumination, have proved that the Chinese have broken out of their old Communist-dictated building habits for good.

Both are regarded as architectural marvels. But outside the Olympic Park, Beijing looks better than ever and offers just about everything the modern traveller could be looking for.

The winds of change are blowing through the Chinese capital.

Beijing's new demand for luxury-lifestyle living is met just metres from the Tiananmen Square in the new Legation Quarter precinct.

In a city where the energy to create the finest in the arts, people and food is becoming more evident by the day, this historic early-20th-century embassy area, reborn, is like a swirling vortex.

New in the old

At its heart is Mission, a four-storey entertainment space housed in what were old diplomatic buildings.

Under the guidance of well-known luxury developer Handel Lee, the force behind the Three on the Bund in Shanghai, Mission captures the energy of the new affluent Chinese lifestyle.

Sporting sleek restaurants, dancefloors, with state-of-the-art lighting and sound, and a rooftop entertainment area which celebrates China's unique lifestyle, it's the new face of Beijing.

While after dark, the Legation Quarter is all about entertainment, by day, it's a place for shopping and relaxing with friends.

In the grand colonnaded buildings, you'll find luxury brands such as Giorgio Armani and Patek Phillipe, an art gallery for Chinese and Western art, as well as one of Beijing's best restaurants.

You'll find a challenging contemporary art scene, iconic shopping malls and world-class nightlife and entertainment options.

The recently inaugurated and controversial National Centre for the Performing Arts, just down the road from The Forbidden City, may be called “the blob'' by some, but it seems to defy convention and shout out that it is very much part of the new China.

The massive glass-and-titanium dome which shimmers in the midst of a large reflecting pool hosted its first public concert just a few months ago.

The complex, designed by famed French architect Paul Andreu, boasts three performance spaces, a 2416-seat opera house, a 2017-seat concert hall and a 1040-seat drama theatre.

The entrance is accessed through a glimmering underwater tunnel which opens out into a lush interior space where light floods in through the glass skin that covers the entire structure.

The performing arts space is twice the size of the Kennedy Centre in Washington, US, and is being heralded as the world's biggest.

Indulge in the Chinese Symphony Orchestra, Chinese concert pianist Yundi Li or even a Chinese-inspired version of the musical Les Miserables.

But while there are many new things to discover, no visitor to Beijing should leave without a brush with its fascinating past.

Beyond the steel-and-glass megastructures are centuries-old temples, palaces with feng shui–manicured gardens, lakes crossed by willow pattern-style bridges and museums to lose yourself in.

Remains of greatness

It's here, among the remains of what was one of the most impressive ancient cities, that you can feel the greatness that China achieved in art, engineering and ideas.

At Beijing's heart is the Forbidden City, miraculously saved from the Red Guards during the Cultural Revolution.

Built in the 1400s during the Ming Dynasty, the massive walled city within the city encompasses some 9000 rooms in 800 buildings and dozens of decorative courtyards.

While the Forbidden City was the nation's administrative headquarters, the Summer Palace was the royal playground and the lakeside retreat.

Today, the many pagodas, Buddhist temples and gardens, laid out on strict feng shui lines, incorporating the four elements of rock, water, architecture and plants, make it a tranquil, bucolic experience.

Food is a big issue in Beijing. The locals love to eat, and today's economic climate has seen the restaurant scene booming.

If you want to combine a garden setting with one of China's favourite pastimes — eating — then head to the pretty Houhai Lake, which has, at its centre, the picturesque Silver Ingot Bridge.

Arrive early and take your time to choose from the many restaurants lining the shores.

The charming South Silk Road Restaurant specialises in authentic Yunnan cuisine while Yue Lu serves up delicious Hunan food.

Later in the night, the action moves up various notches. Head to Block 8 Club, where fashion statements and music from the world's top DJs reign supreme.

For a taste of hutongs, Beijing's traditional alleys, head off Dutong Hutong a short walk from Tiananmen Square.

Sweet, sticky perfection

Line up with the locals and dine on meat, fish and squid barbecued to perfection.

For dessert, try fresh strawberries, pineapple and crab-apples threaded on to wooden skewers before being dipped into hot toffee and dried to perfection.

Splurge on a night at The Courtyard Restaurant, on the eastern moat of the Forbidden City.

Inside the original Qing Dynasty mansion, you'll find an art gallery with contemporary Chinese art and an original menu where old favourites are reinterpreted in a tantalising way.

Be prepared to be bombarded with new experiences as you discover the new face of China's capital as it makes up for lost time and establishes itself as one of the world's greatest lifestyle destinations.

— Scott Adams is a Madrid-based freelance writer

Go there ... From the UAE ... Beijing

From Dubai

Singapore Airlines flies daily.
Fare from Dh3,620

Emirates flies daily.
Fare from Dh3,480

Thai Airways flies daily via Bangkok.
Fare from Dh3,260

China Southern Airlines fliesd three days a week.
Fare from Dh2,510

Air China Limited flies four days a week.
Fare from Dh2,260

— Information courtesy: The Holiday Lounge by Dnata. Ph: 04-3166160

Where to stay

China World Hotel: From the moment you step into the majestic, traditionally decorated foyer, you realise you are in China.

Lush red-lacquered columns and intricate gold-embossed bamboo relief screens fill the impressive space.

Upstairs, in the rooms and suites, the level of luxury is designed for total pampering while downstairs, the pool and spa offer a haven of relaxation.

For fine Chinese dining, don't miss the newly renovated Summer Palace restaurant.
Visit www.shangri-la.com
Grand Hyatt: With spectacular views of the Forbidden City from its upper floors and fabulous shopping at its doorstep, the Grand Hyatt exudes ultramodern charm and sophistication.

The rooms are fitted out with pale-coloured timber and pastel-hued fabrics providing a sense of calm.

Take tea in the massive sun-filled entrance lounge or relax by the massive Polynesian-style pool with a cool drink. Peking Duck is the star attraction at the beautiful Made in China restaurant.

For a truly special experience, book into the Executive Floor, which offers its own lounge, complimentary cocktails and sweeping views across the entire city. Visit www.grandhyatt.com
St Regis: The prestigious St Regis is a legend in the city and, after a multimillion-dollar renovation, looks even more spectacular today.

Situated in an exclusive embassy area, the city's major sightseeing spots are close by.

Indulge in the famous private butler service to take care of your every whim, including bringing you that much-needed cup of tea to your bedside each morning.

The luxurious interiors, combined with high-tech innovations, superb cuisine at the many restaurants and the health and beauty centre make it a perfect choice for those seeking classic luxury. Visit www.stregis.com
Information: www.beijing.com and www.beijing2008.com