Pakistani food isn't just the Chapli Kebab (above), although that may be its best-known export. With gastronomic giants Iran, Afghanistan, China and India as its neighbours, and with seven distinctly different territories, Pakistan has numerous adaptations, amalgamations, influences and innovations in its cuisine.
Best described as a blend of various cooking traditions of the South Asian subcontinent, this cultivated cuisine is markedby three distinct characteristics: variety, richness and abundant flavour.
Splintered along geographic and ethnic lines, the cuisine varies so dramatically across the country that each province boasts a rich and distinct fare. While the oil-rich foods of the Sindhis and Punjabis from Pakistan's eastern provinces share much with their Indian neighbours of the same name, the milder, more aromatic foods of Balochistanis and Pashtuns draw heavily from Iran and Afghanistan. The meat-heavy cuisine of North Pakistan, meanwhile, is influenced by Central Asia.
While the Pathans of the Northwest Frontier greatly favour Naan Kebab (lamb eaten with oven-baked bread), cooks in Baluchistan (West Pakistan) alternate between the Sajji method of barbecuing whole lambs in a pit, the Dum Pukht version of cooking meat in its own fats, or Khaddi Kebab, in which a whole lamb or goat is slow-cooked on an open fire. In Karachi, a bastion of the Muhajirs, it is curry that is central to the cuisine, with flavours ranging from mild to fiery, and often associated with heady aromas. Specialities here include biryanis, kebabs, kormas, koftas, and the classic dishes of Nihari and Haleem — drawing from Bengali, Bihari, Punjabi, and Hyderabadi cuisines across the border.
Cultural influences
Undoubtedly, Indo-Aryan culture forms the foundation of Pakistani cuisine, with plants such as sesame and eggplant and spices such as cardamom and pepper tracing back to the Mohenjo-Daro and Harappa civilisations of 3000BC. For many years, wheat and rice formed the basic foods in the Indus valley. With the arrival of Islam, local cuisines were adapted to accommodate halal dietary guidelines, and Middle Eastern and Turkic influences became ubiquitous. In recent times, Chinese influences have also permeated Pakistani cuisine. Overlying these is the lingering culinary traditions of former Mughal rulers, popularly known as Mughlai food and marked primarily by rich sauces and grilled meats.
The imaginative — if sometimes copious — use of herbs, spices and seasonings have helped Pakistani cooks transform ordinary staples into a rather exotic cuisine. Starting with Asian basics such as chilli, turmeric, ginger and garlic, regional specialities often feature rarer ingredients such as nutmeg, mace, pine nut seeds and pistachios. The use of saffron for colouring, nuts for garnishing, poppy seeds for thickening, and yoghurt for marinating are traits they may share with their neighbours, but the style often varies and the results differ.
Although beans, legumes and vegetables are important, meat is a major part of Pakistani diet. In most ethnic cultures, a meal without meat is not considered fit enough to be served to a guest, and apart from curries, it also makes very common appearances as kebabs, tikkas and tandooris. While wheat is a staple, rice is very popular, and takes on exotic forms as biryani or pulao.
Although the origins of a recipe may be imported, it often undergoes a gradual transformation to suit the local palate, and this is what makes some of Pakistan's dishes unique.
Unique flavours
The lavishness of the imperial Mughal court is reflected in rich desserts such as Shahi Tukra (a fried bread delicacy doused in thick syrup), and Firni (a rich rice and milk porridge). The famed Karachi Halwa — which bears a passing resemblance to Turkish Delight — is almost a generic term for a rich, chewy sweetmeat. Pakistan's taftan, a leavened bread shared with Persian and Indian cuisines, is distinguished by saffron's hue and cardamom's aroma.
While seemingly unrelated, different foods help unify Pakistani palates — and plates — as regional specialities become national favourites. Kaak, a rock-hard bread from Baluchistan is a notable dish across the country. Although it is a relatively small town, Gujranwala draws large number of domestic tourists to its popular restaurants serving such specialities as roasted sparrow. The Northwest Frontier Province's Qabooli pulao is widely popular for being milder and more aromatic that other rice dishes across the country.
Pakistan boasts a plethora of pulaos (also known as pilaf). Common choices include Afghani Chicken, Ahmedabadi Mutton, Mughlai Chicken, Hyderabadi Nawabi, Persian Albalu, Qabooli, Iranian, Nargisi, Shirazi, Zereshk, Kashmiri and Sindhi, among others.
RECIPE: Chapli Kebab
½ kilo finely minced beef; 1 tsp ginger paste; 1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed; 1 tsp chilli flakes; 1 tsp coriander powder; 2 eggs, beaten; 2 green chillies, chopped fine; ½ cup coriander leaves, chopped fine; ¼ cup cornmeal; 1 onion, chopped fine; Juice of one lemon; Salt to tasteVegetable oil for shallow frying;
Add all ingredients except one egg to the minced meat and leave to marinate in the refrigerator for two to three hours. Shape into six flat cakes or kebabs, coat with the second beaten egg, and shallow fry for approximately four minutes on each side. Serve hot as an appetiser.
TRADITION: Dining at a Pakistani household
No one will look askance if you are late by 15 to 45 minutes; it is almost the norm. Carry a small gift but avoid white flowers for they are generally used during funerals, and present the gift with both hands. If a single man is presenting a gift to a Muslim hostess, he must explain that it is from a female relative, or that it is for the family.
Upon entering the home, check if residents are wearing shoes, and remove yours if they aren't. Greet all the elders first.
The meal may be hosted at a table or at a traditional dastarkhan, a ceremonial cloth spread on the floor. Before the meal, it is traditional among Muslims to recite Bismillah Al Rahman Al Rahim.
As a guest, you will be served food first, but you must wait until the oldest person at the table begins to eat, as it is considered rude to start eating before them. If you are eating with your fingers, hands must be washed thoroughly beforehand, and remember to use only the right hand.
You will be urged to take second and third helpings and eating additional servings is the best compliment you can give your host.
