Indian woman’s mission to save indigenous rice varieties yields results

New Delhi: Health experts often state that white rice is harmful for health. But Sheela Balaji, chairperson of NGO, Aim For Seva, refutes, “White rice is not unhealthy; if eaten in small portions. A good source of vitamins and minerals, it’s just that white rice gets digested quickly and due to its high Glycemic Index increases the blood sugar level in the body. Therefore, it is not recommended for people with sugar problems.”

Eat it right

Balaji knows because she has preserved numerous rice varieties and is aware of their nutritional and health values. “Rice is an integral part of our culture. Every grain is good, though each one differs in colour, flavour and nutritional value. When unpolished rice — be it red, brown or black is eaten, it is processed slowly, churning out a steady stream of fuel to power the muscles and keep the person active,” she informs.

While brown rice plays an important role in disease prevention and black rice has powerful antioxidant properties, red rice is high in protein and fibre. So, it is important to choose unpolished rice over polished rice and eat the right portion (preferably 100gm of cooked rice), Balaji suggests.

Reviving rice varieties

Balaji embarked on the rice journey in 2013 on her visit to Adirangam village in Thiruvarur district, Tamil Nadu in Chennai. Introduced to heritage rice varieties and their benefits, she was inspired to conserve these grains in Manjakudi village. For over a decade, Balaji had been running several integrated rural development initiatives in this village.

Her interaction with farmers made her realise the importance of leading by practice. Balaji studied the diversity of rice and researched the nutrients and medicinal values of different varieties. On learning that heritage varieties of rice grew well in Indian soil and climatic conditions, she decided to revive the lost varieties.

But like several other categories of objects, no documentation was found of Indian heritage rice varieties. Thus, she set out to gather information from the farmers who cultivated and preserved these grains. “I began collecting varieties of rice at paddy festivals. Interaction with seed saver groups and farmers, who conserved the seeds, helped me in knowing not only the nutritional content of the rice but also its cultural and historic significance,” she explained.

Balaji set up an experimental farm and conducted farm-training programmes. An annual seed sharing festival was organised for farmers to share heritage rice seeds. It helped her procure several varieties. To date, the NGO has collected over 180 varieties of heritage rice seeds.

Catch 22

Balaji encouraged farmers to let go of hybrid varieties and instead adopt organic farming techniques. She explained (to them) how indigenous rice seeds could stay longer and they would get a better price in the market. But it took a long time for the farmers to grasp the situation, as initially there was no demand for the heritage rice.

“Since people were unaware of the taste and aroma of different varieties, I understood the futility of just growing them. It needed to be popularised in order for people to consume it,” she rationalised.

Back to the roots

The idea led to the launching of the store Spirit Of The Earth in Chennai’s Mylapore area. Balaji says: “The store stocks over 15 varieties of rice and we conduct monthly workshops and cookery demonstrations to raise awareness on the heritage rice varieties.”

“Since the urban population is consciously making efforts to eat healthy foods, they try out different varieties of heritage rice. We are certain more people will follow suit,” she added.

Fact file

Rice varieties at the Spirit Of The Earth

Kaatuyaanam

Light red in colour, the stalk grows over two metres tall. Some experts say grain helps to keep diabetes and arthritis under control, boosts immunity and protects against skin allergies.

Kalajeera

An aromatic rice variety of dark shade, it looks like cumin seeds. It is believed to increase metabolism and haemoglobin levels and improves memory.

Karuppu Kauvuni

This black rice with anti-inflammatory properties has the ability to control weight gain.

Kichli Champa

An extremely fine and long grain, it has a relatively low Glycemic Index and can be consumed on a daily basis.

Mapillai Champa

Recommended for people with diabetes, it lowers blood sugar. It contains zinc and iron content 2-3 times higher than white rice.

Karunkuruvai

Dark brown to black in colour. Doctors are known to recommend this in cases of cell damage.