India: Kolhapur thali — meat lover’s delight
Thali is usually associated with an assortment of veg dishes, but not here
Kolhapur, Maharashtra: India is so vast, diverse and vibrant that it holds surprises at every corner of its countless villages, towns and cities.
From languages and dialects to cultures and traditions as well as the cuisines, there is simply no limit to what India offers.
If you are either a street food lover or a connoisseur of succulent, delectable fare, no part of India will disappoint you.
The only condition is that the consumer needs to have an insatiable appetite and a palate to suit the range of flavours that can in many cases be quite pungent, while in some instances pretty outlandish.
Food in India is mostly associated with locally available herbs, spices and grains, native weather conditions and geography. Adding to this eclectic mix are the religious influences as well as the influences of foreign travellers and traders who have been adding their distinct tastes to the Indian pot from ancient times.
As these conditions vary within short distances, so do the food habits.
In India, food habits change every 40-50 kilometres, presenting a potpourri of great flavours and aromas, satiating every taste that can be imagined.
Apart from Biryani and daal-roti, the most commonly consumed meal in India is the thali or an assorted food platter that varies in its content from region to region.
Thali is usually associated with vegetarian meals in most parts of India. Served with an assortment of curries, a variety of vegetable preparations and lentils in addition to rice and roti, thalis usually are the best ambassadors of local culinary skills.
Broadly categorised as South Indian and North Indian thalis, the range of dishes and the size of the platter vary from region to region.
But, this broad categorisation doesn’t do justice to the diversity of India.
A Punjabi thali is different from a Rajasthani thali, both in its content as well as the taste. Similarly, in southern India, where thalis are most popular, the preparations differ even within a state.
While most of these varieties, despite their subtle or not so subtle differences, are all vegetarian fares, one platter stands for its meaty content - the Kolhapuri Thali.
Kolhapur is a major city and southern district in the state of Maharashtra, which is famous for a variety of reasons including its world renowned handmade footwear, jaggery, misal pav, peta and mutton.
Pungency in food
Kolhapuris are known for their love for mutton and the mild local weather conditions help them breed some of the best goats in India.
They are also known for their preference for pungency in food, so discretion is advised before one dives into the platter.
As much as their taste and presentation, Kolhapuris are also know for their hospitality.
So, never miss an opportunity if you get a chance to dine in a Kolhapuri household.
However, don’t mind if you don’t know any Kolhapuri family as the city has a handful of authentic eateries that serve the delectable thalis, including the sought after curries of Tamda Rassa and Pandra Rassa.
Cornerstones of the authentic Kolhapuri cuisine, Tamda and Pandra Rassa are the spicy red and white curries that the Kolhapuris swear by, and Parakh Restaurant is among the best places to dive deep into these pungent pots.
“Tamda Rassa and Pandra Rassa are the two curries synonymous with the traditional Kolhapuri cuisine. In the traditional Kolhapuri household these curries used to be made on every special occasion, now in the modern households they are rarely made, as they take a lot of time and skill to make. But, people still crave for it, so we have made it our duty to satiate our people’s cravings,” said Sandeep Patole, co-owner of Parakh, one of Kolhapur’s most popular traditional eateries.
Roasted mutton thali is most popular
Parakh only serves thalis for lunch and dinner, both non-veg and veg, but their non-veg thalis, especially the mutton thalis are the most sought after.
“Kolhapuri’s love mutton and traditionally we love it roasted. Our roasted mutton thali is most popular. All our thalis come with a choice of meat dishes (mutton - roasted or curry and chicken), tamda rassa and pandra rassa, daal and sol kadi (a tangy drink made of kokum and coconut that keeps the gut cool),” said Anil Patole, Sandeep’s elder brother and co-owner.
A shade of Kolhapuri hospitality can be seen at Parakh as well as the thalis come with unlimited quantities of the twin curries, ghee rice and chapatis or bakris (roti made of rice flour). Even the meat portions served are also quite generous.
The Patole siblings take turn in cooking and serving their loyal patrons, who travel from as far as Pune and Mumbai just to eat at Parakh, making a beeline well before the serving time.
“This is our father’s legacy. We learnt the art of cooking and serving from our late father Vinayak Patole, who started this eatery from a small hut made of thatched roof. From that humble beginning we have come far, but we haven’t lost touch with our roots. Despite the growth, we still serve with the same humility and devotion. We make sure that our patrons go home satiated and return to us hungry for more,” added the elder Patole.
Parakh started serving the lovers of authentic Kolhapuri cuisine 26 years ago from a small hut, it now serves more than 500 thalis daily.
“For 26 years we have served the people of Kolhapur and beyond with the devotion and love like that of a mother. Our devotion to the quality of food we serve is our main ingredient,” said Sandeep, who heads the restaurant that has won seven national and culinary awards for its service and authentic taste.
The restaurant has also been featured by many national and international culinary reviewers.
So, if you are a lover of meat and can handle the extra doses of chilly, then Kolhapuri thali should be in your bucket list.
With some sol kadi to help you wash down the spices, you might even begin to relish the hot fare after a couple of bites.
Either way, we are sure, you will not regret the choice as you will have consumed a rare shade of India and that makes for a bumper status update on social media.
-- Shafaat Shahbandari is a Bengaluru-based independent journalist.