Cheraman Juma Masjid: Kerala mosque built during Prophet’s lifetime

Kodungallur, Kerala: A visit to the Cheraman Juma Masjid in Kerala’s Kodungallur district is nothing less than time travel. Built in 629 AD, the mosque is the first in India and the oldest in the subcontinent. A part of Kerala’s rich cultural history, the mosque exemplifies the confluence of cultures in ancient India.

But how did the mosque come up during the lifetime of Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) in faraway Kerala?

Kodungallur, which was located near the ancient port of Muziris, was a trading hub for the world. The Chera kingdom had been trading pepper, ginger, wood, and fabrics with the Middle East and Europe since Harappan times. Indian black pepper had even been found stuffed in the 3,000-year-old mummy of Ramses II, the famous Egyptian Pharaoh. Even bulky Indian wood was exported and the palace of Nebuchadenazzar (7th century BC) and the Sumerian Ziggurat Temple of Ur in Mesopotamia (present-day Iraq) from the 6th century BCE used wood from South India.

Arab sailors who were pioneering seafarers held close trade links with the Chera kings who ruled present-day Kerala. It did not take much time to spread the news in Malabar, through Arab merchants, about Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) in Mecca and Islam.

Stunned by dream

When the moon was split into two as a miracle from Prophet Mohammed (PBUH), many people inside and outside the Arabian Peninsula had witnessed it. Cheraman Perumal Rama Varma Kulashekhara was the king of Kerala at that time also saw the miracle in a dream. The king who was stunned by what he had dreamt and sought answers from the court’s astrologers but failed to get a convincing reply.

Luckily for the King, a group of Arabs led by Shaikh Sahiruddhin bin Baqiyuddhin Al Madani came to his capital and sought an audience with the King to anchor in the port before sailing to Ceylon (Sri Lanka). When the King told about his dream to the merchants, he was shocked to realise that it was actually a miracle performed by the Prophet.

This incident is documented by M. Hamidullah in his book “Muhammed Rasulullah,” William Logan in his book “Malabar Manual” and Ahmed Zainudhin Makthum in his work “Thufhathul Mujahideen,” and Balakrishna Pillai in his book “History of Kerala: An introduction.”

Convinced by the interpretation given to him by Shaikh Al Madani, the king divided his empire into three parts and appointed his sons and nephews to rule each province and decided to embrace Islam after meeting the Prophet (PBUH).

Historical meeting

When the Arab visitors returned from Ceylon, King Cheraman sailed with them to meet the Prophet (PBUH). When they arrived in Shehr Muqlla, it is said the king met with the Prophet. This historical meeting has been mentioned in the Hadith by Imam Bukhari and Abu Saeed Al Khudri. The Hadith says: “A king from India presented the Messenger of Allah with a bottle of pickle that had ginger in it. The Prophet distributed it among his companions. I also received a piece to eat.”

King Cheraman declared his conversion to Islam in the presence of the Prophet and later performed Haj. As per the wishes of the Prophet, a team of his companions led by Malik bin Dinar started their journey with Cheraman to propagate Islam in Kerala. But during the voyage, the king fell sick. Before his death he wrote a letter to his sons to receive Malik Bin Dinar’s team and to give them all necessary help. The king later died and was buried in Zafar (now Salalah) in Oman.

After landing in Musris, Malik Bin Dinar met the ruler and handed to him the king’s letter. The ruler made necessary arrangements for them to propagate Islam. This has been quoted in ‘Tuhfat Al Mujahidin fi ba‘d Akhbar Al Burtughaliyin’ by Shaikh Ahmad Zainuddin Makhdoom bin Shaikh Muhammad Al Gazzali.

But is this version true?

Researcher Anjali Mohan who is working on her book titled, ‘Ceraman Juma Masjid: Caritraom, Sanskaram’ (Cheraman Juma Masjid: History and Culture), told Gulf News, “There are arguments that the whole story of Cherman converting to Islam is a make-believe story. Critics say that this hasn’t been pointed out by travelogues written by Al Biruniin his ‘Taḥqiq ma li-l-Hind min maqulah maqbulah fi al-ʿaql aw mardhulah’, Muhammad Al Idrisi and Abu Al Fida. But the fact is that there has not been any version to counter the narrative by M. Hamidullah, William Logan, Ahmed Zainudhin Makthum and Balakrishna Pillai.”

Kerala’s heritage corridor

Speaking to Gulf News, PA Mohammed Riyas, Kerala’s Tourism Minister said, “Kerala has always received guests with warmth, love and respect. The people of Kerala still maintain that culture. Kerala welcomes guests with open arms, irrespective of caste, creed or nationality. Malayalees are people with a big heart and embrace all kinds of culture, tastes and beliefs.”

As part of the State’s attempt to preserve its ancient culture, the Kerala government has launched the Muziris Heritage Project. Under this plan, the Cheraman Juma Masjid is now undergoing repairs to strengthen its structural integrity. The conservation now being undertaken has taken down parts of the structure, which were added to restore it to its past glory.

“The government is taking the Muziris Heritage Project very seriously. Evidence suggests that there were active trade relations between Rome and the West Asian countries from the 1st to the 5th century AD with Kerala. Young people need to be actively involved in all areas. It will be a great investment for the future,” says Riyas.