Ancient souq back in business

Doha: A two-year renovation project has restored Qatar's historic market Souq Waqif to its ancient charm.

As Qatar witnesses an unprecedented construction boom that has transformed the old capital into a modern business centre, the restoration of Souq Waqif represents one of the most fascinating examples of the traditional Arabian architecture and a successful attempt to preserve a symbol of the country's heritage and history.

Located in the heart of the old city, close to Doha's Corniche, the souq had gradually fallen into decay, defaced and devoid of its original flavour. Many historic buildings were replaced by modern cement stalls.

In 2004, the restoration started under the supervision of Emir Shaikh Hamad Bin Khalifa Al Thani. Today, the souq appears as it did 70 years ago.

The ancient construction of clay covered with bamboo and palm leaves again displays its historic face. Small shops open their wooden portals on narrow alleyways lit by ornamental oil lamps, where baskets of colourful species and handicrafts are on display.

"The restoration began after an extensive study of traditional Qatari architecture, with the aim to restore a lost legacy. The redevelopment of the area has been based on early plans and maps and scores of aerial pictures shot in the mid-forties and fifties, as well as the recollections of individuals about how the old souq once was," said a statement Mohammad Ali Abdullah, one of the project's supervisors.

According to information released by the Office of the Emir, which supervised the project, the history of the souq dates back to ancient times when Doha was a small village divided by Wadi Mishrieb.

The inhabitants living on either side of the wadi would gather on its banks to buy and sell their goods. In winter, there was no possibility of sitting down on the banks of the Wadi that would often overflow, hence the name Souq Waqif (or the Standing Market).

The ancient souq hosted large markets known as amayer that served not only the wholesale and retail trades, but also craft shops and open air stalls, attracting traders from across the Arabian Peninsula and the Iranian coast.

Today it hosts small shops selling spices, souvenirs, handicrafts and clothes and jewellery along with coffee shops.

The souq's highlights are the falcon shops selling falcons and all the necessary equipment to practice the ancient sport. Some stores sell unique crafts, such as handmade jewel boxes and mementos in camel bone or precious backgammon tables in ivory and nacre.

"I graduated in Islamic studies but I have decided to dedicate myself to set up this stall. I have liked handicrafts since I was a child, they represent our culture and our past," Hasan Al Maraghi, a young Qatari, fresh from his university studies told Gulf News.

A feature of the souq is the presence of many young Qataris who have decided either to dedicate themselves to produce handicrafts or to trade them.

Mohammad, in his twenties, runs a souvenir shop. He collects paintings on the Bedouin life from artists from across the region.

Maisa runs a shop of typical Bedouin handicrafts, like covers, carpets and cushions, and other traditional crafts. Her mother has a workshop in the souq and Maisa sells her artwork.

For some youths, the souq has become a place to start building a future, for some elderly it is a refuge where they come to look back to the past.

"Doha is becoming busy and chaotic.

"The souq is a place where we can taste the calmness of the old days. I come here, sit in the coffee shop on the market's roof, order a tea and look at the people bustling along," said Hassan Al Merri, a regular visitor.

Souq Waqif's architecture is a typical example of traditional construction with clay covered with palm leaves and bamboo. Small shops open into narrow alleyways lit by lamps.