Patient Education: Fairness creams: Use with caution

Sharjah-based dermatologist Dr Minal Patwardhan shines a spotlight on "miracle" drugs and treatments every fortnight.


This fortnight learn about fairness lotions and creams.

Lighten your skin, polish it, become fair in 'X' number of days! These sort of advertisements and slogans abound in the media. Almost 80 per cent of the patient populace here has some complaint or the other related to skin colour. These range from people who want to become fair drastically to those who have spots on the skin. A smaller percentage of the patients want to have an even skin tone and not 'shades'.

How to unleash a fairness biltzkreig?

Remember that you cannot become fairer than the colour you were born with, unless you develop Vitiligo or use industrial bleach to destroy your melanocytes. Begin with sunscreen. This prevents further darkening and evens out the skin tone. When it comes to fairness creams, go for quality products and proper guidance for their use. It's important to use your own discretion when it comes to beauty products.

What do fairness creams contain?

Most creams are a mixture of a sunscreen and a lightening agents. Research has shown that to use a separate sunscreen is far more advantageous so nowadays most creams are pure 'lighteners'.

What sort of lighteners are used?

The commonest and most widely used skin bleaching agent is hydroquinone. Higher percentages and certain chemical compositions can cause depigmentation so it is best used under medical supervision. However, discontinue use if no result is seen after two months.

An unpredictable side effect is more darkening called post-hydroquinone onchronosis. In view of these side-effects, most pharmaceuticals have now come out with Vit C, a natural antioxidant which combats sun-induced or inflammatory pigmentation and causes lightening.

Liquorice extract is another natural lightener. It has less side effects but it is extremely slow acting.

Kojic acid can be used alone or in combination with hydroquinone etc. In addition to lightening, it causes a little skin exfoliation that hastens fairness.

Alpha hydroxy acids alone, in combination or even as peels, give an even skin tone, suppleness, a skin lightening and anti-ageing effect. But irritation and redness is common, so use with care.

B Carotene creams act by inhibiting pigment formation. These are slow to act but the side effects are less.

Combinations with acids can give reactions. Azealic Acid formed naturally in our body, is available as a 20 per cent cream, gives a good anti-pigment and anti-acne result. It has to be used on a clean skin at night and it's not to be massaged vigorously as this can cause redness and irritation.

Retin A, Benzoyl Peroxide etc are also used in combination creams, in washes etc.

Beware...

of any 'mixed creams' given out by beauticians or non-medical personnel. Most of these contain steroids which are the fastest lighteners you can find but prolonged usage causes acne, skin thinning, intense redness, itching and a myriad of problems.

All said and done, concentrate on maintaining a clear skin, not getting a 'white' one.