Deliciously Arabic

Tas T. Budds samples a lavish Iftar buffet that's also bounteous in flavour

Le Meridien Dubai
Al Mijana

The canon had sounded as we flew through the empty streets of Dubai during Iftar hour. The destination was Al Mijana. The walkway leading to the restaurant's entrance is exquisite with its wood planks, drowsy trees and tumbling waterfalls. It feels like a stroll through a Japanese garden, which leads us to an ornate door with a giant brass knocker.

Resisting a childish urge to use the knocker, my guest and I waited to be welcomed and escorted to our table by the hostess. A charming woman in a traditional black and scarlet gown, she made us feel like the sun was shining benignly down on us.

We were given a corner table in a cosy alcove, from where we had a substantial view of the sumptuous Iftar buffet. Without further ado, we proceeded with our meal.

For starters, we were provided the traditional hot and cold Arabic mezzeh including hommous, moutabbel, fatoush, tabboulleh, Baba Ghanouj, kebbeh, fhoul, makanek, mouaganat, numerous bean salads and a range of flavoured vegetables.

Both of us tasted most of them. My guest loved the sharp-tasting Baba Ghanouj with its sprinkling of ruby red pomegranate pearls, while I feasted on the tangy Egyptian black lentil and rice salad. There was also an entire hammour fish served with several accompaniments.

I have a strange problem with eating food staring at me, so I didn't try the fish, but it was popular with the other diners.

The next course was green garden pea soup for my guest and lentil soup for me. They were served with quarters of Egyptian lemon wrapped in tiny squares of fishnet fabric tied with vermilion ribbons. The result was extremely pretty, along with being a highly practical solution to prevent lemon pips from falling into the soup when you squeezed it.

My guest promptly declared the pea soup as "highly comforting".

Green peas are a favourite with her, so the soup with its distinctive creamy flavour was an instant hit.

The lentil soup was light and deliciously warm with a dash of lemon. You could just have the delicate saaj bread with the soup and walk away content.

The main course offered mixed grills, different types of flavoured rice with meats. A surprising dish was roast beef in brown sauce, not Arabic but tasted good with the rest. A nice work of mix 'n' match.

I tried some grilled beef and lamb, while my guest tasted a selection of the rice on offer.

All were delicate in body and bounteous in flavour. The beef cubes were meltingly tender and succulent… some of the best I have eaten.

The final course was a wide assortment of Arabic sweets including the cheese-filled golden kunafah, velvety Umm Ali and fresh fruits.

My guest decided to practise gastronomic prudence and opted to forgo the desserts. However, I decided it would be unfair on the chef who had gone to such trouble… a sliver of kunafah and two tablespoons of Umm Ali were tasted. The cheese sweet was fragrant with a soft heart and the pudding creamy.

Over hot cups of coffee we pondered over the fabulous pleasures of good cuisine, as the meal settled. Finally with a mellow but happy mood we stepped out, ready to brave the antics of the traffic maniacs to go home for a quiet evening.