Small near the Sphinx

I was perched seven feet above ground. And the fear of a bruising fall made me shudder. Added to that was the terror of being stomped on by Solomon, a gangly camel that seemed to weigh almost a tonne or more.

I longed for firm ground. Therefore, I refused to show any annoyance at the unreasonable demand of Ahmad, the camel handler, for 100 Egyptian pounds (Dh65) for the short ride on Solomon that lasted less than 30 paces.

I had been lured by the prospect of getting all the three pyramids of Giza outside Cairo, the Egyptian capital, in one photographic frame.

But, I now realised, Ahmad was hustling me to pay up before my Arabic-speaking friend, Hermie, who works in Cairo and speaks fluent Arabic, reached my side. She was astride Sarah, manned by Ahmad's assistant who was introduced to us as Gamel.

Standing tall

I managed to put on a brave front till Hermie came to my rescue. She made a fake show of anger at the heckling and used the word 'police' generously, to good effect, and salvaged the situation.

But, apart from the scare, the short stroll astride the animal was thrilling. And a view of all the three big pyramids together was no small reward. Among them was the sight of the Great Pyramid of Khufu towering above the Giza skyline.

The 145m structure, built by the Pharaoh Khufu (also known as Cheops), of the Fourth Dynasty in 2,560BC, remained the tallest man-made structure on the face of earth till the 19th century.

Beside it are the pyramids of Khafre (distinct from the others because some of the casing stones are still visible near the top) and Mencaure.

The skyscraping pyramid of Khufu makes one wonder about the human genius that created them. And the astonishing achievement of the minds that conceived and built a structure of more than two million granite blocks — each weighing upwards of two tonnes — without the aid of hi-tech lifting and moving equipment.

The structure is supposedly spread over an area that can hold, all at once, St Peter's Cathedral of Rome, the cathedrals of Milan and Florence, and the Westminster and St Paul's of London!

The two other smaller pyramids are equally amazing, the remains of their labyrinthine network of tunnels, intriguing.

The grandeur and richness of Egyptian culture is an experience that could not have been imagined or gleaned from school textbooks. The pyramids, integral to Egypt, stand tall as a testimony to human creativity, rising high above a desolate desert landscape.

With over seven million tourists visiting the pyramids every year, the tourist guides and the camel handlers know how to make the most from each visitor.

But for those who refuse to be unsettled by such minor distractions, the Cairo experience can be exhilarating. Giza offers amazing views, with its massive pyramids and the city in the distance sloping off to the great Nile, and Cairo sprawled out on the other bank.

I walked up the sloping road, guarded by the imposing Sphinx, a massive half-human, half-animal creature built by one of the pharaohs to guard the necropolis of Giza. Then I proceeded to the Pharaohnic Village, a major attraction in Cairo.

The cruise

The package consists of a lovely cruise down a placid canal with mock-up figures and scenes from a great civilisation lined up on the shore. The cruise, which includes a sunset sail on the Nile, is worth every minute of it. Mercifully, the package is handled by authorised personnel.

The Cairo museum is yet another awe-inspiring experience even in this land of gargantuan proportions. It was an overwhelming experience to behold the pharaohs who lived almost three millennia ago. And eye the vast collection of articles of their life here and beyond.

The exhibits at once revealed the greatness of the civilisation that created them, and the pettiness of some men and women who peopled the times. The museum is a day's walk-around, amid figures who ruled over vast populations and, seemingly, with endless power.

Leaving this land of giant civilisations is not easy on my heart. But the comfort is that Cairo is only five hours by air from Dubai. And the lure of Luxor — the city of the Valley of Kings and the Valley of Queens some 1,000km south of Cairo — where two vast necropolises await visitors, continues to haunt me.

Go there...Cairo

From the UAE
Emirates flies daily to Cairo from Dubai.

Egypt Air flies daily to Cairo from Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

Etihad flies daily from Abu Dhabi.

How much
Emirates fare: Starts from Dh1,880 exclusive of taxes.

Egypt Air fare: Starts from Dh1,200 exclusive of taxes.

Etihad fare: Starts from Dh1,290 exclusive of taxes.

— Information courtesy Al Tayer Travel