Parisian reflections

Parisian reflections

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5 MIN READ

I'm sitting at the open end of the Louvre, in the Tuileries Gardens, the largest and oldest public park in Paris, right in front of the statues Baigneuse se Coiffant, Venus de Milo and La Nymphe.

On my far left is the Eiffel Tower, light streaming on to it from a gap in the clouds.

I have on my three sides the exquisite exterior of the Louvre, with the intricate art of its sculptures. Stretching in front of me are rows of manicured bushes.

I hear a flap of wings from the tree under which I am sitting, birds chirping incessantly somewhere on my right and footsteps of people walking up and down the gardens, the centre of the Louvre, an epic monument of art.

Just sitting there, even though it's a little cold, I feel a connection with something beyond all this.

There is a stillness in the atmosphere and yet the air is filled with a sublime passion that seems to penetrate deep within me.

Versailles, to start with

But all this comes later. Let me begin with Versailles. Of course, there are many ways to see Paris — enjoy the main sights and the quaint little cafés, indulge in shopping on Champs Élysées or Saint Michel or walk around the streets and soak in the atmosphere.

Why I decided to start off with Versailles I don't know, but it sure is a place worth going to.

The Palace of Versailles, also called the Chateau of Versailles, is one of the national monuments of France.

This was the official residence of the kings and the seat of the French monarchy from 1682 to 1789 — the year the French Revolution started.

It's only a 30-minute train or taxi ride from Paris, and by the time I arrive at the Trianon Palace, where I'm staying the night, it's already afternoon.

I'm walking distance from the chateau, but I had already decided while I was falling asleep on the Eurostar from London that today was not the day to even so much as walk out of the hotel.

Instead, I opt to spend time at the Guerlain Spa. Back in the room in the evening, after a spa treatment and a relaxing massage that leaves me feeling light, I lean back on the cushions, sink into the bed and fall into a deep sleep.

I wake up late the next morning and set off to see the Palace of Versailles.

Large, manicured trees lined up like guards, glorious, shimmering fountains and golden statues in the water (slightly ugly when I see them up close) lead me to the chateau, which, when I finally see it, makes me stop in my tracks for a moment — it is historical, rich, artistic and grandiose at the same time.

Plush palace charm

The fountains and gardens add a lush, warm charm to the palace.

I stroll around unhurriedly, admiring the magnificence of the palace and its intricate carvings.

I don't venture inside much — sometimes just being in a place can give a sense of atmosphere, history and richness. And this, for me, is one of those places.

That afternoon, after being mesmerised by the chateau, I head off to the city itself, to The Five Hotel. It is located in Rue Flatters (rue means road in French), near the Luxembourg gardens and Rue Mouffetard, one of the well-known market streets.

Tanya, the hotel assistant, takes me right across the road to another hotel called One By the Five.

She takes me to a room with a door that has no name, no identity, nothing except sheer fabric with an imprint of a blue sky.

A lovely surprise

But when the door opens, I don't know where to look. I am greeted with ceiling-to-floor swishes of velvet — brown, purple or grey, or perhaps a mix of all these colours — large satin pictures on the walls and a black couch.

By now, I'm really feeling the lack of a better half. If Paris is known as the city of love, this was the apartment that defined it.

After an early breakfast the next morning at the One By the Five, I take the bus to Saint Michel, a fantastic shopping street near Notre Dame.

At the end of the street is the vibrant Latin Quarter, with many Mexican, Italian, Lebanese and French restaurants, small boutiques selling unique jewellery and clothes, and people browsing through shops at their leisure.

At the corner is the Café Saint Severn, facing a fountain designed by French architect Davioud.

There are people sitting outside, laughing and chatting, with their chairs facing the street.

The walk along the Seine from Notre Dame to the Louvre is enjoyable.

Many of the masterpieces the Louvre houses may well appear incomprehensible to the untrained eye — imagine opening a jewellery box and finding so many diamonds and rubies in it that it's difficult to know how to appreciate them all.
An art haven

But the artworks at the Louvre — which include the paintings and sculptures on the ceilings, the large domes and the white-and-gold arches, and the sculptures from many centuries ago — are more vivid and magnificent than anyone can imagine.

The glass pyramids outside are also worth seeing.
From the Louvre, where I certainly should have spent more time, I take the Metro to Sevres Babylone to shop at Bonmarché, the large department store, and also to enjoy a facial at the in-house Shiseido.

It's almost evening when I head off to the raucous Rue Montorgueil (Metro station — Chatelet Les Halles or Etienne Mancel), teeming with people.

I'm meeting a friend there for dinner but since I'm a little early, I decide to roam the street, exploring the quirky boutiques, the patisseries, the boulangeries (bakeries) and the flower shops.

This is an area where I would love to stay the next time I visit the place — rent a Welcome2France luxury apartment and enjoy a lovely holiday.

Delectable delights

I stop to have a berry smoothie at Toga Juice, the green-and-red hues of which catch my eye.

I then find Silk and Spice, the Thai restaurant where I'm supposed to have dinner.

It's in one of the side streets called Mandar and offers delectable Thai meals.

We start with a healthy Buddha bleu tea and end with the deliciously odd basil ice-cream.

We then go over to Amorino, a gelateria on Rue Montorgueil (no, healthy basil ice-cream doesn't count).

The colours, creams and sorbets look so luscious that restricting myself to just one flavour seems to be a sin. “Can I have one scoop but three flavours?'' I ask.

A few seconds later, I'm holding a cone with yellow outer petals (mango-flavoured) and red inner petals (strawberry-flavoured), with a white core (banana-flavoured). And it tastes ... I could well be in Rome.

— Meera Manek is a UK-based freelance writer

INFORMATION

Stay and tour

  • The Trianon Palace, Versailles (www.Westin.com/TrianonPalace): King rooms start at 319 euros (Dh1,853), Deluxe Kings at 459 euros (Dh2,666) and Deluxe Suites with a garden view at 898 euros (Dh5,216).
  • The Five Hotel
    One by the Five (www.onebythefive.com): The rate is 960 euros (Dh5,576), including cocktails, breakfast and music.

    The Five Hotel (www.thefivehotel.com): A standard room starts at 160 euros (Dh929), a Superior Luxury Room at 280 euros (Dh1,626) and a suite with a spa bath at 330 euros (Dh1,916).

How to get around

  • Walking is a great joy in Paris. It's worth getting lost, being tempted into side streets, finding new cafés, stumbling upon old churches – and just observing.
  • There are companies that organise walks in Paris — just turn up and you'll be part of it.
  • The Metro is the way to go. Get a map from any station and ask the information desk which line to take and which station to go to (tickets are 1.50 euros, or Dh9, one way).

Go there ... Paris

From the UAE ... From Dubai

Price per person on a twin-sharing basis: Dh11,320

Package includes:

Return Economy class flight on Emirates
Four nights stay in a superior double room at The Fouquet's Barriere, Paris
Daily breakfast
Return airport transfers

— Information courtesy:

Dnata Holidays.
Ph: 04-298576

Meera Manek
Meera Manek

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