Choose your calling

Surf, trek the hills or simply relax at a five-star resort...exotic Bali lets you choose your own tranquillity.

Generally, there are two types of holidaymakers who come to Bali: surf-lovers and culture vultures. This volcanic Indonesian isle is renowned for its near-perfect waves, which are magnets for surfers around the globe. Yet, since the 1920s, Bali has also been revered as an island rich in culture, art and craft.

In the south, Kuta Beach is the haunt of surfers and beach-lovers. When I first ventured here 20 years ago, Kuta had a dreamy, village-like charm, but today, it's a bustling precinct of surf shops, souvenir vendors and nightclubs - which are still popular despite the 2002 bombings.

Adventure, tranquillity

It's a wonderful romp, providing you keep an eye on unscrupulous moneychangers. Hardcore surfers should head south to Ulu Watu, but for those not so serious - and happy to surf within walking distance of their hotels - Kuta has great beach breaks.

Yet if you yearn for something more tranquil, head for the hills. The town of Ubud, set amid terraced rice-paddies and pockets of jungle, has been a favourite among backpackers since the 1960s and today boasts spa resorts for the jetsetter crowd.

Here gourmet restaurants compete with woodcarvers and silversmiths for the attention of tourists, but Ubud is much more than a shopping trip.

Here art is a way of life: evident in batik fabrics, Hindu temples and floral offerings that adorn household shrines.

Whether you stay in a bungalow or a five-star resort, you are ringed by greenery, serpentine stonemasonry and exquisite woodwork. Whether you dine at a chic café or a roadside eatery, your meal is presented like a masterpiece.

On my most recent visit, I stayed at Gusti's Garden Bungalows, a 10-minute walk from town. From here you can walk or cycle to most of Ubud's attractions.

Top of the list is the Monkey Forest, where hundreds of macaques roam a lush, jungle setting. Spend several minutes here and you're guaranteed to see them harass unsuspecting visitors: seizing foodstuffs, drink bottles, even cameras, then scampering off, discarding anything inedible. In the midst of the forest is the evocative Pura Dalem Agung temple, also patrolled by macaques. If you want to avoid any monkey business, it's quite simple: don't bring anything with you!

An hour's cycle from Ubud is the delightful Goa Gadjah (elephant cave) temple complex. Hinduism thrived in Indonesia between the 7th and 14th centuries, but today, Bali is the only island where it is practiced.

Massive crater

North of Ubud is Penelokan, a village on the rim of a massive crater. From here you can see Mt Batur, a volcanic cone in the middle of the natural amphitheatre.

If you're hankering for the ocean, the quiet Lovina area lies on the north coast. Like Ubud, accommodation is outstanding but this is not a spot for surfers as there are few waves. You can, however, charter a boat and go snorkelling, diving or dolphin watching.

Or, alternately, sit at a beachside cafe, sip fruit shakes and while the day away. For, in Bali, there's more than one paradise to choose from.

Bali

Getting there
Emirates flies to Jakarta via Singapore and Colombo. From Jakarta, Garuda flies to Denpasar, Bali.

Where to stay
Kuta: Hotel Barong is $30 (Dh110) for a double.
Ubud: Gusti's Garden Bungalows has doubles for $20 (Dh75).
Lovina: Bali Lovina Beach Cottages has doubles for $30-40 (Dh110-145).

Information
For online bookings: www.balihotelbookings.com offers good rates.

On the bookshelf: Lonely Planet's Bali and Lombok guidebook is updated annually.

MUSIC
The sound of Bali
The quintessential sound of Bali, gamelan music has been compared to the sound of water tumbling down a waterfall. An ensemble of wind-chimes, xylophones, gongs, flutes and stringed instruments, gamelan orchestras can be found in virtually every Balinese village, where they practice daily in open-air pavilions.

There are many performances for tourists, but nothing matches sitting in on a genuine jam session. This serene, hypnotic music accompanies performances of wayang kulit - traditional shadow puppet shows - as well as many Balinese dances.

The latter are performed nightly in Ubud, but if you're just after a gamelan performance it's quite easy. At dusk, simply take a stroll and let your ears guide you!

Visas: Most nationalities get a visa on arrival. Seven-day visas costs $10 (Dh36); 30-day visas are $25 (Dh90).